Dinner at Oliver’s place, was very yummy, thank you!
Ca’ del Baio di Giulio Grasso Barbaresco Asili 2006
Thanks to Oliver. Medium raspberry-red, soft watery-orange at the rim. Tiny marzipan top note to baked plum, dried porcini, faint truffle, and a suggestion of dried ham. Balanced enough, perhaps a bit light medium weight. Fairly nice, ever so slightly grainy and dry tannin. Medium length. Going back to this after the two Giacosa Asilis, more overtly fruity, but simpler, lighter, more straightforward. But apparently a fair QPR buy (forget what it costs). Rating: 88(+/-?)
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 1998
Thanks to Oliver. Ruby-black, soft watery-orange rim. Noble walnut and tree bark finesse notes to medium blood orange and hay, faint furniture polish, tar and herb notes. No undue dryness, but neither particularly fruity nor sweet. Nice but not too deep or flavourful/tea-like tannin. Medium-plus length. Oliver reminded me of an impression we already had at the importer’s arrivage tasting years ago, that this is the lightest of Giacosa’s 1998 Barbarescos, and no wonder, it now appears to be the most evolved. A pretty little Giacosa Asili that is a pleasure to drink – Remo sure loved its approachability. The Rabajà from the same vintage comes across as primary in comparison. Rating: 90(+/-?)
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili 2004
Split cost sample bottle. Fresh ruby-black colour. Terrific finesse and minerality on a nobly subtle nose. Relatively compact on the palate (if a far cry from the style of old), more harmonious but less powerful and palate-staining than the 1996 (both: was at the same stage in its development, and remains to this day). A completely different vintage in terms of characteristics (so much so Oliver looked a bit shocked for a moment there). More red-fruity/Burgundian, plummy raspberry, touches of red- and blackcurrant, a suggestion of rose-hip. Well-concentrated but no monster. Clean and pure. Dark-fruitier with airing, seemingly becoming deeper and more complex. Soft spice, mace and a touch of anise, perhaps a little more licorice. Nice acids. Lovely finely-grained tannin. Long, finesseful and harmonious. Young Giacosa does not get much easier to understand and interpret. Oliver certainly expected a more powerful wine. Remo even found this a bit alcoholic. My impression is that although the 2004 Riserva Asili appears to be less intense and fruit-drenched than the 2001 Riserva Rabajà (and that plot – whether Rabajà or ill-divided/-zoned Asili – brings forth uniquely exotic/aromatic/sexy fruit), at least at this early stage, it is a more sharply focused, light-on-its feet, harmonious wine, more balanced and complete if less sexy (as Oliver put it) than the 2000 Riserva Asili. Whether or not one thinks the 2004 as promising as the powerful 1996 may be a matter of perspective: it ultimately comes across as more typical Barbaresco, and in particular, a more elegant (and that is typical) expression of Asili. Let me put it this way: anyone who grew up with a Burgundy mind-set (that is, like me) will be pleased with the 2004. Needless to say, it closed down a little with extended airing, becoming tighter and seemingly more tannic – it is young wine in need of bottle age. Its early harmony (a hallmark of the vintage) should make it reasonably approachable soon enough (possibly starting from age 10 already). It is true modern Giacosa is different from what it used to be, but along with Giacomo (Giovanni/Roberto) Conterno’s, his wines nonetheless remain my stylistic icon/reference for the region. Rating: 95+/96(+?)
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti