Yet another superb riesling presentation at Solano Cellars, this one closely focusing on 2007 wines from two middle mosel producers—wonderful opportunity for me to get a better sense of the vineyard distinctions. First up, the 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett had a beautiful, if bit tight, nose—lots of wonderfulness under the sulfur. The wine, no surprise, felt like it needed time, but the smoky mineral core with a softer delicate underbelly made it very interesting in the interim. Nonetheless, let it be. The 2007 Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese offered a lively, spicy nose but edged toward feeling overripe in the mouth—rich, tangy, nearly oversweet. Delicious, but feels like a big, big wine. Another wine that needs time. Felt riper than the last time I tasted it, but my vote is wait and see. Next up was a three-fer comparison of three different pradikat from the same vineyard, same producer. The 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett was clean, evenly structured and incredibly firmly bound. Typical Prüm kabinett. The 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese needed a revisit (which alas I did not make), but the nose was notably beautiful and the wine, with a spark of acid, tasted rich and fun, plenty of firmness. Rather promising. The 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese was astounding—much more for me than for some others round the room (though there was a coterie that heartily endorsed my view). This wine is explosively delicious. Rich and sweet but with enough acid to make it feel not just balanced, but elegant. And the nose! This is stunning drinking right now—but, oh the places you'll go!
After the Prümathon, we returned to visit the 2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, which has mango and honey and plenty of it, if you're interested in flavor descriptors, but more important to my notes were the long string of OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG and so on. Others really liked it—I couldn't see straight. This wine is freaking stunning. Share it with someone you want to befriend for life. The 2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Rotlay, on the other hand, just felt like it needed time. Bit crunchy, which was nice, but thick and heavy—it's pleasurability isn't as accessible as it could be. Another let it be. The 2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese was a winner for me—less clear what the reaction was across the rest of the room. Bit waxy nose, but crunchy and savory with Indian spices—very different and lots of fun. I like its differentness (I can get bored of mangoes and honey—though admittedly not lime—pretty easily). The 2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese Schmitt is a wine I've had occasion to revisit a number of times and I just think it fun. And that's all my notes about it say: fun. Make of that what you will. Finally an enthusiast participant contributed a bottle from her personal cellar to open our eyes to what age can do with a bottle of the 2002 Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese whose nose was integrated as was the taste—stunning to drink, good limeness, everything fits together and works together—no worrying in the background about whether this or that might takeover or be out of balance. It's attained classic status, it's a band of collaborators that's been playing together long enough to at least make stepping on each other toes an enjoyable part of the performance. A complete whole and delicious to drink. And my education continues anew . . .