Yesterday we met up for some arctic char, lamb and mostly Austrian wines.
Bodegas Itsas Mendi Bizkaiko Txakolina 2009
12,5% abv. Nicely mineral and saline scent, but also something strangely fruity like bananas that I don't feel comfortable with in Txakolí. It is also quite full bodied and fruity for Txakolí but it is gladly also lively. My memories of Txomin Etxaniz and Ameztoi are better; in comparison this was a bit boring and unmemorable. However, I must give it another chance as I have never had this producer before and it is reputed to be good.
Adegas Valmiñor Davila 2007
Strangely evolved: very deep gold color. The scent seemed quite lovely with lots of minerals and peaches but without sweetness. Lifeless palate, however. I don't know what is wrong (too much fruit for cork taint IMO), but this was completely different from my other recent experiences.
Wieninger Gemischter Satz 2008 & 2009
12% abv for the 2008 and 12,5% abv for 2009; a field blend of a dozen or so varieties. The '09 is fuller than the lovely '08 but is still obviously the same wine: lovely, elegant aromatics reminiscent of gewurz/muscat, but with a strong mineral presence and a crispness that those grapes rarely have. Yet despite this mix of everything grown near Vienna, these manage to taste very pure and clean. Despite everyone else hyping the 2009 I preferred the 2008 for its added crispness and cooler aromatics. But I will happily drink the '09 also.
Sattlerhof Cuvée Vom Sand 2009
11,5% abv; a Sauvignon Blanc based blend with some Chardonnay (and something else too IIRC, but I neglected to write it down). A little bit candied aroma of pear drops, but otherwise it is a nice, light, crisp, refreshing white. The Sauvignon aromas are to the fore, but their aggressiveness is tempered by the other grapes. A fun wine, but not very memorable.
Schellmann An Der Südbahn 2008
13% abv. A blend of Zweigelt, Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir. This estate is now owned by Fred Loimer of Kamptal. I like Loimer's whites but have found his Pinot Noir rather on the oaky side, so I was little afraid of this Schellmann since from 2002 he has been involved with this property. I am sad to say that there is a clear kinship with Loimer's Pinot Noir: lovely fruit material, crisp and well structured and savory yet full of fun, lively fruit. But this is all covered in a layer of oak that smells rather like hot chocolate. Long, and less oaky on the finish than the scent would have suggested. There is no doubt that this is a very well made wine that should have numerous fans, but I will stick to Loimer's whites from now on.
Heinrich Zweigelt 2008
12,5% abv; glass stopper. Aged in vats and twice used barriques. Deep colour. Quite a lovely scent, dark fruit, some sweetness to it, but savoury and full of wild berry aromas. Good body, delicious structure - crunchy and refreshing with great purity of fruit. A great example of how a wine can be ripe and lush yet stay moderate in alcohol and refreshing. Classy. Good stuff.
While cleaning up, one participant opened up a blind red. It was the Vieux Château Certan 1973 that a bunch of us bought for a very cheap price several years ago. In 2006 I thought it was a lovely old Pomerol and it hasn't really budged since. Bright red, elegant aromas, some earth; refreshing, fairly high in acidity for Pomerol, resolved. After the boisterous, young wines, this was like a late composition by Morton Feldman - long, very quiet, seemingly immobile yet full of nuances that aren't apparent on a cursory glance. Lovely. And this is supposed to be a bad vintage?!?!