Rkatsiteli. Rkatsi...who? Rkatsi...what??

It's one of the world's most ancient wine grapes.

It's also one of the most widely grown grapes in the world. It's all the rage in Russia and Georgia.

And you've probably never had it. Hell, you may have never heard of it before (unless you're one of those starry-eyed wine geek types).

In Russia and Georgia, it's pretty much the all-purpose workhorse grape. It's used for everything: dry, sweet, sparkling, dessert, fortified, whatever.

But there are plantings of this ancient variety in other places---albeit in small amounts. One such is in the well-known wine-growing state of...Massachussetts. And there's some in the Finger Lakes too.

One I sampled just recently, courtesy of a gift from my friend Jason Brandt Lewis---yes, THE Jason Brandt Lewis, legendary wine personality and wine forum provocateur and general know-it-all-been-there-done-that of wine---was the Westport Rivers Rkatsiteli 2005 Northeast New England.

Weighing in at a surprisingly moderate 11.2% alcohol (!), this estate grown Rkatsiteli is worth a try. After all, what wine lover wouldn't try something this out of the ordinary, eh?

It's typical in the light, spicy, tangy elements; and it's technically a correctly made wine and decent enough withal. When I sampled it with some students during a course session on the ancient history of wine, it was quite well received.

But for me, it had an unmistakable and immediately apparent odor---and subsequent flavor---of that musky (and often musty) Muscadine grape native to the east coast of the U.S. And that is, as we say in the business when we're being noncommittal or damning with faint praise, "an acquired taste."

I acquired my first taste of it when I was very young, by sampling a local fresh-picked wild Muscadine homemade wine in Georgia (the other one, the one that wasn't invaded by the Soviet Union, just rawboned Anglo-Irish immigrants). Despite that experience, I later went back to taste more Muscadine---this time as a professional, thinking it was my duty to do so so I would be informed, and actually know whereof I speak, and this time from vineyards in Arkansas. There was even a white Muscadine and a red Muscadine. I tasted both. to make sure.

After acquiring that taste, I felt no particular need to acquire any more tastes. So, if you're guessing I'm not particularly overwhelmed by this wine, you would be correct.

Again, it's not a bad wine...it is simply not very interesting or likable to me. That 'foxy' wild native American grape smell just doesn't do it for me. Nice acidity, actually. Good body, with a light touch of sweetness that doesn't cloy, and some tangy-spicy flavors. But there's that Muscadine-ness, that Muscadine-osity...

Still, if you're on the East Coast, you might try it if you get the chance. Your mileage may well vary. And for what it is, it's good. Heck, it's undoubtedly the single best Rkatsiteli I've ever had!

[James Roscoe]

The Rkatsiteli I have tasted has come from Horton in Virginia and Dr. Frank's in the Finger Lake's. Both had a Pinesol quality to them I couldn't shake. I see no reason to add any more of the variety to my profile.

Damn!
I've had some but I haven't thought about it for years - believe it was a Concannon. Can you confirm that they were one of the few that ever made it in California?

Not so bad, as I recall. Also enjoyed 1970s vintages of Charbono from Inglenook.

Damn!
I've had some but I haven't thought about it for years - believe it was a Concannon. Can you confirm that they were one of the few that ever made it in California?

Not so bad, as I recall. Also enjoyed 1970s vintages of Charbono from Inglenook.

I'm pretty sure they did have Rkatsiteli early on.


Update: Bill, I did some googling, and I found several references, including one long magazine article, that confirmed Concannon did have the Rkatsitelli. And in an ironic twist, apparently one place on the East Coast ordered as much as they could make of the stuff.

And those Inglenook Charbonos were astoundingly good. And long-lived too!

Actually there is still some Charbono grown, fermented, bottled and sold commercially from Napa. Shypoke Charbono is the wine I'm alluding to. Gary Heitz a friend is responsible for this wine. Gary is primarily a grape grower and I've heard Gary's wife in a sarcastic tone ask him how much a ton of cab from Napa is worth and how much a ton of Charbono is worth. Gary's family goes way back in the valley and he made this wine to honor his grandfather who bottled the same many years ago. He is not related to Joe Heitz. I thought Paul B. might have a bottle of this wine, right up his alley.

Anyone wanting to unload their Rkatsiteli can send it right this way. Perhaps it's because I like (and make) those foxy Delawares, Catawbas and Dutchesses that I also like Rkats, although I'd never thought of muscadines, if that's the taste, as foxy. Frank, who was from Russia, made it one of his first plantings and the winery has continued to make it pretty much every year since. A place in New Jersey was making it a few years ago too.

I've enjoyed Dr Frank's Rkatsitelli from Finger Lakes the few of times I've managed to get hold of it. I've not had the variety from elsewhere.

I didn't encountered the muscardine flavours you note.

Since Rkatsitelli is pure vinifera I am wondering if there might be a possibility that the wine you had wasn't a 100% varietal but had some local grapes in the blend...

the only version i rkatsiteli i've had is dr. franks and have had a number of vintages over the years. again here, i find NO hint of muscadine or foxiness - and can't imagine how there could be such. my guess is cross contamination in the winery - i mean even a few drops would change the flavor of a large volume. i don't think the current versions from dr. frank are as good as the ones 10 years ago or so for some reason.

The Rkatsiteli I have tasted has come from Horton in Virginia and Dr. Frank's in the Finger Lake's. Both had a Pinesol quality to them I couldn't shake. I see no reason to add any more of the variety to my profile.

James, are you thinking of the Dr. Frank 2006 tasted during the NiagaraCOOL visit to the winery? At that time I found the same piney note you mention. However, a year or two of age softened that wine, and the pineyness disappeared. A bottle a little over a year ago was very nice, with overt fruit on the nose. I'll try to bring a bottle to NiagaraCOOL if you'll be there.

Count me as another who has not found foxiness in the Rkatsiteli. I've tried those from Dr. Frank and McGregor, a Finger Lakes producer that does a lot with eastern European grapes.

I've enjoyed the one from Dr. Frank winery.
Charbono--love the one that Robert Foley still produces.

I very much enjoy Dr. Frank's rkatsiteli from the Finger Lakes. It doesn't have any "foxy" quality to it at all--nor should it, since it's a Vitis vinifera variety. It reminds me somewhat of some of the aromatic Central European varieties. Definitely worth trying, IMO.

-Paul W.

Guys, you probably shouldn't put too much emphasis on my personal take of Rkatsiteli vis a vis the Muscadine impression---I did state that was for me. It was simply an association I had from my early days, and now the Rkats triggers that association.

Since the grape is of Caucasus/trans-Caucasus origin, apparently, and if not precisely there, surely widely developed there, it is obviously vinifera rather than labrusca.

All I can do is call 'em as I see 'em---and when I tasted this Rkatsiteli, it brought back very immediate memories of the taste of Muscadine. Specifically, the pungent, grapey, grape-skin, musky nature of Muscadine. That's my association, and I'm sticking with it.

I would expect others to have mileage variance. As I said, the wine was very well received by some of the students; they quite liked the taste. They also appreciated the historic aspects of the grape.

Like many others above, I've really enjoyed Dr. Frank's editions over the years. I agree with you, it is a varietal that many have not tried before but do enjoy once given to them.

Agree with Paul, Mike, et al. There is no fox in Dr Frank's Rkat.

[James Roscoe]

The Rkatsiteli I have tasted has come from Horton in Virginia and Dr. Frank's in the Finger Lake's. Both had a Pinesol quality to them I couldn't shake. I see no reason to add any more of the variety to my profile.

James, are you thinking of the Dr. Frank 2006 tasted during the NiagaraCOOL visit to the winery? At that time I found the same piney note you mention. However, a year or two of age softened that wine, and the pineyness disappeared. A bottle a little over a year ago was very nice, with overt fruit on the nose. I'll try to bring a bottle to NiagaraCOOL if you'll be there.

Count me as another who has not found foxiness in the Rkatsiteli. I've tried those from Dr. Frank and McGregor, a Finger Lakes producer that does a lot with eastern European grapes.

Steve, you are spot on. Are you saying that it needs to age? I guess at the price point it couldn't hurt. Thanks for the info. I am planning on being at Howie's picnic, all things being equal.