2007 Massolino Barbera d’Alba Serralunga d’Alba Gisep 15.0%
From older Vigna Rionda vines. 18 months in barriques and 6-9 months in bottle. Tasted this at the winery in November and found "Lovely and ripe red fruit aromas. Great acidity grip, lovely balance, high alcohol fully integrated. Great density, serious stuff."
Brought home a bottle and opened it last night. Nose was reticent, ripe plum and nothing else (Marcia says umeboshi, but that's Japanese to me). Good mouth weight, but the mid-palate is hollow. Every component seems compartmentalized, badly integrated. There's a searing sensation at the back of the throat that suggests lavish acidity but is more likely alcohol flaming the oesophagal flora. Even though Barbera is naturally low pH and the idea of acidifying one seems ungodly, the fact that this is 15% makes the mind start playing tricks with the palate. I keep wondering if they haven't supermatured to compete with success stories like Braida's Ai Suma and, therefore, managed to produce one that requires addition. Dismal reports from last month's fractious Barbera junket only amplify the suspicion that this is some deracinated bastardo of dough. But, then, how come I enjoyed it so much in November? Since then, maybe Gisep hit puberty. Or mine ended.