Gathered some non-geek friends for a handful of oldies, all from a recently described visit to a friend’s father’s cellar.
1961 Nicolas Charenton Quarts de Chaume
Lovely orange gold, showing almonds, botrytis and very light, entirely age appropriate oxidation. Fruit still very much alive, decent acidity, some dishrag and citrus notes. Quite lovely, and a testament to the longevity of chenin, given that this is likely a so-so producer who has long since vanished. Kept getting better as it breathed, and was still quite alive after two hours.
1979 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne
Oxidized. Poured a touch for everyone out of respect for what this must once have been, and to contrast with the light oxidation of the preceding.
2004 Domaine de Roally Viré Clessé 13.0%
Had this on standby in case the Latour was shot. Minerals and white flowers. Dense mouth feel, overripe, cloying sweetness, not enough acidity, some bitterness. As it breathed, the glass began to smell of cotton candy. A total disappointment compared to the 2002 Bongran Viré Clessé (made by Gauthier’s father, Jean Thévenet) from a few days ago.
1995 Leoville-Poyferré St. Julien 13.0%
Put this in a decanter two hours before the tasting but it smelled so good that I double decanted (strange that double decanting, instead of being more than decanting, is less). Cedar, graphite, plums and eucalyptus made for a heady cocktail. The follow up, however, was a let down. Still very tannic, in an unpleasantly grainy way, a bit hot, with residual bitterness. This needs another five years of charm school. But the multiple personality syndrome may never resolve. I dunno, maybe they should stop blending in Bordeaux.
1925 Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva
With hushed anticipation, opened right before serving, our grand old man of Europe. First aroma is, unbelievably, dill! Amazing that the American oak telltale can survive this long. The came other herbs, like rosemary, and a curious and pleasant grassiness. Totally sound in structure, with perhaps a touch more acid than fruit, but delicious. Eighty-five years old, unreal. Tasting not a day older than thirty five (in better shape than most reds I’ve tasted from the 1960s and 1970s). Easily the WOTN, even without senior citizen discounts.
1975 Ernst Jungkenn Rheinhessen Dienheimer Paterhof Siegerrebe und Huxelrebe Trockebeerenauslese
We began with a strange bird and ended with an even stranger one. This TBA was made from Siegerrebe and Huxelrebe which are, in turn, crosses between Madeleine Angevine & Gewurztraminer and Chasselas & Courtiller Musque, respectively (thanks, David). First shock was on pouring. It’s red! Botrytis and musty dishrag, the latter blowing off rapidly. Strong molasses taste, acidity not quite up to the sweetness, but lovely fruit. Can’t say I tasted any tertiary complexities that might justify the aging of wine made from these grapes, but still reverence-worthy.
.
.
