Meursault 1996 – J-F Coche-Dury – Alc.12.5%. This is a simple village appellation; the wine seemed remarkably young showing full/medium body, density, crisp acidity, backbone, length and depth coupled with complex aromas and flavours including white and citrus fruit, nuts and abundant stony minerals. Not a trace of oxidation on this robust and stimulating bottle of Meursault; 17/20.
Meursault 1er cru Genevrières 2001 – François Mikulski – Alc.13% - showed lighter body and less minerals and acidity than the previous but perhaps more polish and refinement befitting the 1er cru status as well as a more creamy lusciousness typically associated with Meursault. The acidity was lively enough, though, to prevent any cloying; 16.5/20+.
These two are examples of the qualities I am looking for in white Burgundy which have become so rare now that premox intervenes so often before they get there.
Mâcon-Villages Quintaine 2007 – Pierrette et Marc Guillemot Michel – Alc.14% - (€14), tank matured.
I admired the 2006 version of this for its complex honeyed white fruit, minerality, richness, roundness and caressing mouth feel but found a slight acidity deficit which lead to the wine’s being difficult to match with food because of an overall slightly candied impression in spite of negligible RS. This 2007 has the same complex qualities allied to much more lively acidity and backbone making it an excellent food wine for rich dishes. A remarkably fine effort for the Mâconnais and a demonstration that wood is not necessary to bring interest to Chardonnay; 16.5/20++ QPR!!.