WTN: Disappointing Bolly with question; Dönnhoff compensates

For Germaine's birthday, I looked to a fine champagne with the lobster and to German Riesling with some assorted goat cheeses.

Bollinger Grande Année 1995 - Alc. 12% - showed an unpleasantly cheesy note on the nose which I have met before in bottles of GA, particularly 1988 . Mercifully this was much less apparent on the palate which was full bodied, rich and quite complex with a touch of liqueur and a firm finish (Germaine complained of bitterness). I thought, however, that there was a lack of charm and elegance and have found recent bottles of SC much more harmonious; 15/20.

Question: Have others had similar experiences with GA? I accept that my passive cellar with seasonal temperature fluctuations is not ideal but I don't think that this should be happening to a vintage champagne of Bolly's reputation even in its 15th year. The following wine, similarly cellared, was perfect.

Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese -07- 1994 - Weingut H. Dönnhoff - Alc.10%. What a lovely wine and what a perfect pairing for these mainly Loire goat cheeses, each one of which brought out new delicious facets in the wine . It is hard to describe it because it was so harmonious and perfectly integrated. Discreet sweetness, minerals including faint hydrocarbons, mouth-watering acidity, white fruit, floral and spice aromas were all there on a medium/light weight, beautifully shaped and long palate; 18/20.

[David M. Bueker]

Tim,

I have not had similar experiences with the Bolly GA. I do have some '95 in my cellar, and have read very encuraging reports on it from both consumers and the wine press (most recently in The World of Fine Wine & their recently released book on Champagne), so I am quite surprised at your results. That said, Champagne is probably the most delicate wine in terms of storage requirements, so perhaps passive cellaring contributed, but I am not sure.

Love the Donnhoff note. Puts to shame the "Donnhoff doesn't age" crowd.