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WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

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Oswaldo Costa

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WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by Oswaldo Costa » Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:52 pm

Marcia and I spent the weekend in Rio de Janeiro and went to dinner at an exotically located and competent restaurant called Aprazível that has the most counter-culture (and therefore most interesting) Brazilian wine list I've seen so far, courtesy of Jonathan Nossiter who, as many of you know, married a Brazilian and now lives in Rio. We ordered from a section of the list that had some pre-Nossiter odds and ends, but for the main section he seemed to have done a good job of picking just about every out-of-favor Brazilian wine around. A praiseworthy feat, given that most Brazilian wines suffer from acute Andean envy and would love to be low acid/high alcohol/fruit compote (but we don't have high altitude deserts that require constant irrigation and produce cooked grapes that can only be picked supermature lest the tannins be too green). The non-Brazilian section had some interesting wines that are basically unknown in Brazil, e.g. forum faves Baudry Chinon, but at the wallet-raping prices practiced here, and only partially justifiable by the 215% import taxes. The basic Baudry Chinon was $125. Feel our pain.

1999 Dal Pizzol Do Lugar Cabernet Franc Reserva da Familia
Last bottle on hand. Old, for a Brazilian wine, with appropriately soiled label. Faded magenta, with bricking at the rims. Pungent barnyard, leather and some loamy forest floor. Fine acidity, light and pleasant bitter finish. Nice, but a bit thin. Would take more fruit and extraction to become pleasurable, but had its own quiet dignity and wasn't trying to be from anywhere else. Marcia sneezed 10 times, so I estimate 100mg/l SO2.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:06 pm

Nice one Oswaldo. Baudry price is disgusting!!
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Re: WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by Jenise » Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:29 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Nice one Oswaldo. Baudry price is disgusting!!


I'll second that, Bob.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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John S

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Re: WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by John S » Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:56 pm

Wow, I thought BC was bad for wine prices in restaurants - that is incredible! And the 215% wine taxes puts our 116% taxes to shame! :evil: :shock:
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Olyr Correa

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Re: WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by Olyr Correa » Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:14 pm

Oswaldo,
some months ago I drank Dal Pizzol Do Lugar Cabernet Franc 2005. Found it very good. Perfect acidity, great colour, nice aroma, charming price. Your barnyard and forest soil where there, so I believe that´s inherent to the wine and not from bottle age or vintage, remebering that many consider 1999 and 2005 the best vintages of modern brazilian viticulture. Paired nicely with a dish of mushrooms and carrots. Bought two bottles for US$ 12 (BRL 24) each. No doubt a "typical" brazilian wine, if there´s such thing.
Drank one Dal Pizzol Ancellotta 2004 too. This was more like drinking a Lagavulin, better, a Laphroaig of the older bottlings, in Rio´s summer. Swept through my throat like a mistral. Harsh and herbal. Beautiful colour, enormous structure, pleasant nose but week, somewhat unbalanced. I felt that there was more than the 13% Vol declared on the label. Recommended pairing with white mold cheese and salami did´nt work. A very distinctive wine from anything I´ve drunk before. Still don´t know if the wine pleased me or not. I guess not.
I´ve been to this restaurant before and my impression was of a place where prices don´t match quality. Nice place for an autumn night in Rio. Service regrettable. Anyway, this was before Nossiter came in. Besides de wine chart, do you know if he has a more close relation with this restaurant? I am very curious to hear what dishes he recommends with the brazilian wines he´s fond of.
Last edited by Olyr Correa on Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: unusual Brazilian cab franc & quasi Nossiter sighting

by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:40 am

Thaks, Olyr, great notes. A year ago in Garibaldi we tried the 2008 Dal Pizzol Pinot Noir and it was one of the worts wines we have ever encountered, so I'm glad to hear their Cab Franc was holding up well until recently. Your note really makes me want to try it. Even the Ancelotta sounds interesting, in the name of science.

I know that Nossiter is friends with the owner. Recently I read an article by Nossiter in a Brazilian cooking magazine in which he sings the praises of a new white wine made by Alvaro Escher, called Era dos Ventos, an oxidative Peverella, and says that it's available at Aprazivel. Perhaps there is something more going on than just the wine list. I tried Escher's original Peverella from Cave Ouvidor but found it too oxidative for my taste. I expect a similar reaction to the Era dos Ventos, which I'll try soon.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.

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