WTN: 3 + 3

CdBeaune

1998 Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Île des Vergelesses
2003 Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Île des Vergelesses
Two tough vintages for this wine and both were showing all the evidence.

The 1998 was interesting because I had a bottle 3-4 years ago and it was thin and acidic and hard and not fun. This was very different and had become much broader and more generous. Such is the magic of aging wine. But, it still wasn’t a true ‘generous’ wine. Because the broad flat red-fruited florals were more-or-less one dimensional and never approached the preciseness that I love from better examples of this wine. And lest I think that this just needed air, it seemed to have creeping notes of oxidation. Of course I’m no expert so this could have just been a bad bottle/still not showing its all. But I don’t have any more so it doesn’t really matter for me.

The 2003 was sweet and almost-stewed and what one might expect. After many hours of air it began hinting at the fresh crisp core I recognize from other vintages of this wine, but there was still too much soft blurry fat on top for me to want to buy more. Especially at roughly $50. Maybe it will age into something more elegant and delightful, but I’m too risk averse to find out with my own money.

2002 Nicolas Potel Volnay Clos des Chênes
Starts out ripe dark and diffuse but melds together very well with a dinner of fettuccini, chanterelles, radicchio, leeks, and cream. Without food it is messy. But after many hours of air the spine becomes evident, and the texture becomes more velvety and precise all at the same time. Which is nice. Don’t know what that says about future prospects but given the vintage rep it is likely that this will show better in the future?


Muscadet

2005 Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords VV
2008 Pépière Muscadet Clos des Briords VV
Two nice wines. Each in their own way. The 2005 shows great poise and completeness, although not the most electric energy right now. The 2008 has all that fun young brisk salty lemon mineral water Muscadet tingle. But perhaps less full poise. Choose your weapons accordingly. And have fun. No surprises here.

2005 Bossard Muscadet Expression d’Orthogneiss
First impression is of a hollow iron wine. With air it broadens a bit but is still too dominated by the hard currant iron for me to really enjoy. Others may find more inside this bottle but it feels too old/eviscerated for me.

[David M. Bueker]

Are you finding 1998s on the shelves somewhere? I ask because you seem to check into the vintage more than occasionally.

The variability of the Cote de Beaune is problematic. I ended up buying the Île des Vergelesses in 2005, but have not yet pulled the trigger on 2006 due to price and concerns about the ultimate quality of CdB in lesser years. Overall I have much better luck in areas like Chambolle and Gevrey in the lesser years.

Interesting notes on the Briords. I have a significant stash of the 2005 which I am holding in an effort to prove to myself either that Muscadet can actually profit from age or that I just don't getr it. Of course I also have a bottle of 2005 Brossard, so that will likely meet its maker soon.

Are you finding 1998s on the shelves somewhere? I ask because you seem to check into the vintage more than occasionally.

As someone who hasn't really cellared much wine until recently, I have definitely been concentrating on 98s and 00s for red Burgundy vintages that give good pleasure today and are available to purchase for reasonable prices (not always brick and mortar so technically not always on 'shelves' ).

This however was one of my oldest purchases, I bought it back in 2006 from Vineyard Gate in CA.

Interesting notes on the Briords. I have a significant stash of the 2005 which I am holding in an effort to prove to myself either that Muscadet can actually profit from age or that I just don't getr it..

There has been a bunch of recent discussion about the 05 Briords. Some people get more pleasure out of it now than others, but I think most would agree that it is in an 'inbetween' stage. Not as expressive as in youth and not yet with many aged characteristics. So I think if you have a bunch you will want to hold at least one to see where it develops to answer that question about whether it profits for your palate. But, if you have a bunch you will probably also enjoy tasting it now to see how it is different from youth. And the poise/material is still evident.

The variability of the Cote de Beaune is problematic. I ended up buying the Île des Vergelesses in 2005, but have not yet pulled the trigger on 2006 due to price and concerns about the ultimate quality of CdB in lesser years..

I had a few bottles of the 2006 and thought the quality was pretty good (if not at the level of 02/05 - I've never tasted 99 - definitely more appealing than 98/01/03/04 - the other vintages I've had). But the price is definitely an issue and I wouldn't buy more unless it comes up at a clearance sale.