A standard-setting riesling-only (!) event held at Vintage Berkeley Elmwood offered some insane examples and a willing and inquisitive group to appreciate them. What fun! I started out at the Rudi Wiest table with a touch of the 2007 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Riesling Spätlese trocken (Franken) which I first found lush, rich, and well-defined but found flabby and hard to appreciate at other times, then some good deliciousness later on. Hard to make a final call on, I'd say! In any case, it seemed one of the more polarizing wines, with some loving and some definitely not. Super-excited to have some Franken wines at the event (which had been a request on my part), I tried some of the 2006 Rudolf Fürst Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs (Franken) in bocksbeutel. This was my wine of the night (though some of my fellow tasters wanted me to expand on why, as some loved this and some liked it—but didn't see the reason for love). Expressive, divine, complex nose with a taste of neat borders centered on a great body. Rocky flashcards! Not only was it complex and interesting, it was easy to drink and the wine I had settled on sipping absentmindedly at the end of the night. Insanely expensive, but an incredible wine which I adored. The 2008 Gunderloch Riesling Fritz's (Rheinhessen) was expressive, explosive apricot, semi-sweet and pleasant, but too basic for my tastes. The 2008 Mönchhof Robert Eymael Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Middle Mosel), however, was slurpable—crisp and fizzy, lime and honey, easy definition, but still yummy and delicious to drink. A keeper. Then onto a vertical starting with the 2002 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese (Ruwer) which I prefered most of the three. Savory earth, good rootedness, mouthcleansing acidity combined with some development on the aging front. Delicious—a wine that makes me happy. The 2003 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese (Ruwer) was my least favorite of the three, but some preferred it most. Richer, sweeter, maybe a touch flabby (but only in comparison to the other two, I think)--still this was really good. Wouldn't have to twist my arm to drink a bottle. The 2004 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese (Ruwer) had a nose that really held back. The taste indicated a need for more time—great body in the center, not as much acid as the 2002 (which surprised me), but I think that was actually a function of the rich butter which still remained. Give this one time.
Onto the Terry Theise table starting with the 2008 Josef Leitz Riesling Eins Zwei Dry (Rheingau) which had a nice 'more than simple' nose and had sharper edges, but frankly seemed a really good basic dry food wine. Didn't show impressive—but I liked all the components and I yearned for some cheeseboard pizza to pair with it (always a good sign). The 2007 Weingut Hirsch Riesling Gaisberg (Kamptal, Austria) was one of the divisive wines of the night, with some of my fellow riesling geeks forming a Pflaz phalanx (the Weegmüller being particularly divisive). This to me, was peppery and weighty with a good grip, but couldn't keep my attention. Different and fun, but a couple of retastes never sold the wine for me. Continuing with my persnicketiness, the 2004 Weegmüller Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Kabinett (Pfalz) was fruity, peachy, grapefruity—crisp and pleasant, but dearness, I found it boring, while others adored it and slurped it down during the evening. The 2008 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese (Nahe), however, was knee-melting. Didn't find anyone not wowed by this wine. Richness you can drink. Time will do this well, but I wouldn't cry if I drank it now either. The nose is stunning—worth spending an evening with. The 2002 Weinrieder Riesling Eiswein Poysdorfer Schneiderberg was concentrated and intense, with a touch of TBA about it with an intense oily center, but pretty simple and straightforward—I wasn't too excited by it.
Moving onto Dee Vine, the 2008 Prinz Riesling trocken (Rhengau) was my value wine of the night. Nose a bit subdued, but defined, fresh, sliced stone, light and crisp. Just plain delicious-drinking riesling. The reason we are here, I believe. The 2006 Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs (Rheinhessen) required a bit of an extended courtship for me to appreciate. My initial taste wasn't unimpressive, just hard to figure out if I liked it (others had similar reactions). Plenty of paprika and Indian spices, fiery somewhat with a super long finish. This is a big wine. It takes some acclimation and needs to be taken on its own terms. Took me a while, but that incredible complexity and integrated bigness (not at all overpowering) made for a stunning cross section of a wine. Pretty amazing stuff. The 2006 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese (Ruwer) was an easy sell—fantastic nose, sugar deliciousness. Needs time, but it is clean and delicious. Yummy! The 2006 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese ** (Nahe) offered a soft and flavorful lime and floral mix on the nose, while the easy rich delciousness was light and elegant—a kiss of beauty. And a beautiful night it was!
