Decadent night of food and wine

[James Roscoe]

We started out with a very nice Spanish Cava and some pate. I can't recall the Cava, but it was a nice way to start the evening.

Seared veal sweetbread with fresh morels in veal jus reduction, 2007 Condrieu Laurus Gabriel Meffre
I have not had a lot of Condrieu. Is it always so complex? This was particularly unctuous. It coated the inside of the mouth like a great olive oil leaving flavors of cheese and flowers. It finished nice and bright with tart apple and pear. I loved this wine.

Roast leg of lamb with garlic cloves, parsley potatoes and green beans, 2005 Jean Luc Colombo Les Bartavelles Chateauneuf du Pape. This was nice and bright red fruit. It was very ripe. It could have used more time, It had been open an hour before we drank it. I have another bottle of this in the cellar. I think it will be a few years before I open it. the lamb was nice and rare and the potatoes were sauteed and then buttered while in the pan. The beans were similarly prepared.

Vielle Mimolette - cow's milk hard cheese
St. Agur- creamy blue cheese
Ossau Iraty - Pyrenne's hard cheese (Basque) with cherry jam
St. Vernier- soft ripened cow's milk cheese washed rind
2006 Deus Ex Machina Clos St. Jean Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine tasted a little more like a traditional CDP to me. It had a little more earthiness and went well with the end of the lamb. We were sopping up the juice with some nice French bread. (YUM!)

2002 Kracher No. 11 Welschriesling - This was amazing stuff. Did we open it 25 years too early? It was nearly perfect with the St. Agur blue cheese. The St. Agur has a soft texture and a nice sharp mold. The wine wasn't too bad with the other cheeses either all of which were amazing.

We ended the evening with a spice cake iced with cream cheese icing and a praline middle. It was extremely delicious. No one thought to bring another bottle of sparkling wine and it really wasn't necessary. It was the decadent end to a decadent evening.

I have not had a lot of Condrieu. Is it always so complex?

No. But the good stuff is so fun.

Ossau Iraty - Pyrenne's hard cheese (Basque) with cherry jam

I always see this combination of hard sheep cheese and cherry jam but never do it myself. And I should. Because I love both ingredients and the combination sounds like so much fun.

[James Roscoe]

Condrieu just went on my "holy grail" list.

Condrieu just went on my "holy grail" list.

Which sounds like a good description because the good stuff is rare and expensive. But, I suppose you could have worse obsessions.

[James Roscoe]

Condrieu just went on my "holy grail" list.

Which sounds like a good description because the good stuff is rare and expensive. But, I suppose you could have worse obsessions.

You mean like finding a perfect CDP? These were both good, but they would never be great. Still fantastic food, and friends make the wine so much better, (and vice versa )

You mean like finding a perfect CDP? These were both good, but they would never be great. Still fantastic food, and friends make the wine so much better, (and vice versa )

I think you'll save a lot of money and have a lot more consistent pleasures if you are obsessed with Chateauneuf as opposed to Condrieu. Lots of great CdP (for those who like that stuff) but not nearly as much Condrieu. (For starters, Condrieu is 124 hectares compared to 3200 for CdP. And then there is the difficulty of viognier!)

Condrieu just went on my "holy grail" list.

If you like the minerally stuff, hunt down Perret Clos Chanson.

I like SueNZ's definition of "minerally" = "lacking fruit". Don't entirely agree, myself, but in some instances I can see her point of view. Not applying that definition to anything said here, of course.

Condrieu just went on my "holy grail" list.

If you like the minerally stuff, hunt down Perret Clos Chanson.

Pichon is not bad either.

[David M. Bueker]

Then there's the factor that Guigal controls about 50 hectares of Condrieu, and slaps it with about 100 hectares of new oak.

Then there's the factor that Guigal controls about 50 hectares of Condrieu, and slaps it with about 100 hectares of new oak.

Isn't that like being slapped up-side the head with a 4x4?

Nope. I've enjoyed Guigal's La Doriane a few times - it's a big wine, certainly not the light/minerally side of Viognier, but still very well done, nicely balanced and really perfumed and aromatic.

Sure sounds like a great evening, James.
I don't have any Condrieu on hand currently (the prices!) but have loved Domaine R. Rostaing Condrieu "La Bonnette" in the past. You might see if that one is available in DC/Maryland area.
I believe I've met Monsieur Colombo at a wine dinner in Raleigh.
Just yesterday I was rearranging some wines in my cooler and came across a 1998 Kracher Huxelrebe Beerenauslese. Maybe it's time to open that one (small bottle.)

You mean like finding a perfect CDP? These were both good, but they would never be great. Still fantastic food, and friends make the wine so much better, (and vice versa )

I think you'll save a lot of money and have a lot more consistent pleasures if you are obsessed with Chateauneuf as opposed to Condrieu. Lots of great CdP (for those who like that stuff) but not nearly as much Condrieu. (For starters, Condrieu is 124 hectares compared to 3200 for CdP. And then there is the difficulty of viognier!)

Not if he buys stuff like Deus ex Machina.

Not if he buys stuff like Deus ex Machina.

That's just 1 wine!

Not if he buys stuff like Deus ex Machina.

That's just 1 wine!

Alas it's not hard to name 10 other CdPs that all cost North of $100, without even giving it much thought, and much harder to name 10 that cost under $30.

Alas it's not hard to name 10 other CdPs that all cost North of $100, without even giving it much thought, and much harder to name 10 that cost under $30.

Yes, but I always thought you did much better in the $30-70 range in CdP than in Condrieu or Burgundy. Assuming one likes CdP.

Alas it's not hard to name 10 other CdPs that all cost North of $100, without even giving it much thought, and much harder to name 10 that cost under $30.

Yes, but I always thought you did much better in the $30-70 range in CdP than in Condrieu or Burgundy. Assuming one likes CdP.

You can do it by knowing producers, watching sales, etc. But surely that's true of Condrieu too.

[David M. Bueker]

Jonathan - what's the current thought on Fortia?

Jonathan - what's the current thought on Fortia?

I stopped tasting regularly after the late 90s. As I remember, Parker liked the wines then, after not having liked them for a long time, and I bought some, liking them well enough on release. But they seemed made to drink young. They don't die with age, but they don't go anywhere interesting. They have gone the way of multiple cuvees, but the wines don't taste spoofed, just not inspiring. I have no idea what other critics think of recent vintages.

[James Roscoe]

You guys have lost me. The Laurus Condrieu and the Deus CDP were both purchased on site as far as I understand it. They were mighty fine wines as far as I was concerned.

I'm not a big fan of the Deux ex Machina, though I haven't tasted any vintage after 05, so if it has radically changed its style, I can't speak to the 06 you had (from Parker's reviews I doubt there has been a stylistic change). But I certainly understand others liking it. Rahsaan and I were talking about price and not just quality. If by having bought it on site, you mean you bought it at the domaine, that would have made it less expensive certainly. When I was there in 05 or 06, though, they were selling the 03 for 50 Euros. I don't know what it is now, but I hardly think it would be less, and that still makes it a pricey wine. I don't think you can find it in the US for under $150, though I don't watch closely.