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WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

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WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Salil » Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:03 pm

Kirk Wallace got a small group together for dinner at the appropriately-named Spicy & Tasty in Flushing last night. Seriously good Szechuan food with a range of really good dishes - highlights were the two pork belly dishes, chicken and the lamb with cumin (though the chicken was seriously hot, and the roof damn near blew off my mouth when I accidentally ate one of the red chillies), and a lot of very, very good wine.

2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Really ripe and intense; bright white fruited flavours, peachskin and a firm, expansive mineral character beneath with floral and smoky elements emerging with air. Finishes with a slightly sweet, almost glyceral note, though this suffered with the Szechuan food with the 13% alcohol becoming obtrusive at the first sign of heat.

2001 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
Fabulous. Still looks incredibly young, pale and primary with a gorgeous scent of pear and minerals and amazingly light on its feet; lots of depth and presence but with barely any sense of weight.

2001 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese
Elegant, understated and really complex with layers of red fruits, peach, citrus and a wash of minerals and salty notes on the back end. Very polished, almost glossy in the mouth - really delicious.

2001 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5
Flat out amazing. Incredibly pure Mosel fruit, slate and vanilla cream elements in a seamless, almost weightless package with serious precision and length. This disappeared within minutes, fortunately there was a second bottle that showed even more primary, paler and more fruit-forward without the vanilla cream notes but with the same sense of balance and elegance. (Originally the plan was for a flight of 01 Schaefer Domprobst from different fuders, but we ended up with two of this - nobody was complaining! :))

1976 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen Riesling Auslese
Bright gold colour with a gorgeous scent of honey, tropical fruits and orange peel accented by developed smoky and vanilla cream notes. More one-dimensional in the mouth though, almost monolithic and rather Sauternes-like with the botrytis dominating completely and giving it a viscous, slightly sticky mouthfeel.

2004 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese
Full of bright yellow plums, peaches and floral notes over a slatey mineral base, very forward and fun to drink with the food, though this doesn't show the same acidity and sense of precision that other bottles have.

2006 Dönnhoff Felsentürmchen Riesling Spätlese
Explodes with peaches, strawberries and other red fruits; very ripe and forward with a cotton candy-like sweetness but good acidity keeping it very well balanced. Delicious.

2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (AP #19-02, white capsule)
Still an infant, but already spectacular. Starts out a little tight at first with bright peach, citrus and yellow plums over an intense slatey minerality - but with some air this really takes off, opening out aromatically and developing beautiful floral and herbal accents on top of the fruit and slate. Fantastic precision and balance with really good acidity that makes it feel incredibly light on its feet - a wow wine, even though it has years ahead.

2002 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (AP #13-03, white capsule)
Really delicious (particularly with the food) on its own, but this suffers in comparison with the '01 (poured alongside); this is more developed with smoky and petrol notes on top of bright Mosel fruit, but doesn't show the same depth, precision or lightness, feeling slightly softer and finishing a little short.

2001 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Auslese
Packed with cherries and other red fruits, citrus and touches of pineapple and honey with very subtle botrytis elements in the background. Really sweet and rich, but there's a sense of real power and firmness here with the acidity giving it an almost chiselled texture.

2005 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese
Full of such incredibly bright, vivid fruit ranging from ripe limes and peaches to more exotic tropical notes with touches of jasmine, minerals and honey underneath. Very sweet and rich, though the sense of purity and clarity to the fruit and the bright acids underneath make it incredibly fresh and easy to drink.

1998 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese
Something's very off here - bright peach, grapefruit and petrol aromatics, but this feels very awkward with a hollow middle and the acids spiky and unbalanced. Cooked? Either way, continues my streak of bad luck with Dönnhoff's 98s.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Rahsaan » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:16 pm

You're a busy man!

Nice to hear about all those 2001s showing well.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by David M. Bueker » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:21 pm

I am thinking major 2001 horizontal at my place this year.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Rahsaan » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:07 am

David M. Bueker wrote:I am thinking major 2001 horizontal at my place this year.


Not a bad idea! Salil's notes sound like the wines here were showing young but very pleasurable, not a bad combination.

I haven't had any 2001 wines in the past year that were really gushing gloriously, but I have gotten some pleasure. Of course I don't think I've had any since the fall. At least that I can remember.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Salil » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:14 am

Rahsaan wrote:Not a bad idea! Salil's notes sound like the wines here were showing young but very pleasurable, not a bad combination.

I haven't had any 2001 wines in the past year that were really gushing gloriously, but I have gotten some pleasure. Of course I don't think I've had any since the fall. At least that I can remember.

I was amazed at how young a lot of these were showing - particularly the Leistenberg Kabinett (that seemed as primary as the '08 Leistenberg, but even lighter and more polished), the second bottle opened of the Schaefer Domprobst and the Prum Auslese. That said all of them were absolutely fantastic to drink, really bright, precise and offering a lot of enjoyment.

Re. 01s gushing gloriously - David had opened an 01 Christoffel Wurzgarten one-star Auslese and a Meulenhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese in the last couple of months that were incredible.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by David M. Bueker » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:03 am

I think we're in danger of missing a beautiful stage inthe 2001s if we do not take a serious look at them now. That middle ground where there is still much of the original fruit coupled with the initial onset of bottle age flavors is my favorite time to drink German Riesling. A year ago I would not have suspected we are come to that place, but every bottle I have opened in the last few months has hinted (very) strongly that we are there or near there.

Exceptions to this abound, and I am unlikely to be opening Prum gold capsule auslesen, but a large stash of Sebach, Christoffel, Donnhoff, Haart & others has recently been made more accessible in the glacial cellar.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Kelly Young » Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:15 am

Just curious as to this panels thoughts on the age curve of Riesling, I'm thinking specifically of German but I guess Alsace and Austria could come in to play. I thought Rieslings were pretty much a go across their life spans, unlike some varietals which I'm told "close down" of have a "stupid youth" before blossoming into great swans. Maybe I'm misunderstanding the above and you're just describing a difference, as far as taste as opposed to quality, in the wine?
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Dale Williams » Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:18 am

Sounds like a fun night.
I need to do an inventory of 2001. I get the feeling my CT might not be accurate, that I might have drunk some w/o entering the consumption - it shows things I didn't mean to age like Darting Kab. But I think I'll start in on some Kabs and Spatlesen now.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by Rahsaan » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:48 am

David M. Bueker wrote:I think we're in danger of missing a beautiful stage inthe 2001s if we do not take a serious look at them now. That middle ground where there is still much of the original fruit coupled with the initial onset of bottle age flavors is my favorite time to drink German Riesling..


I don't know if I have enough experience to say 'favorite' but I definitely agree that it's a great stage for my palate. For many red wines too.

Let me know about planning.
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Re: WTN: Lots of Riesling; Spicy & Tasty

by David M. Bueker » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:14 pm

Kelly,

Most Riesling is pretty drinkable along its lifespan, but many German wines do close down for several years. Things like spatlese and auslese can remain quite enjoyable in that period because of their high flavor and sugar levels, but as general rule I enjoy the wines either early (first two years post release) or after 5-7 additional years of cellaring.
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Charles Weiss

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Re: 2001 Riesling

by Charles Weiss » Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:40 pm

I have quite a few of these myself and I agree from my own experience, though my cellar is or at least had been much less glacial.

I'd be happy to provide a Boston area venue for such an evening


Charles

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