Suavia (Azienda Agricola) Soave Classico DOC 2006
This somehow manages to be sweet and savoury at the same time. It may be the fact that it smells like the sweet flesh surrounding honeydew melon seeds combined with the greenness of the flesh right next to the skin, at the same time. Plus there’s some raw nut meal (hazelnut?) that adds some interest. It’s almost full in the mouth, yet it somehow has a lightness and refreshment that means it’s not heavy at all. The flavours and the weight work wonderfully together. It finishes with a slightly astringent freshness of vague flavour that keeps me wanting to try another sip.
Tamellini Soave DOC 2007
At first this smelt like crude sour pineapple (like, for me, many-an insipid so-called “elegant” Aussie Chardonnay). It almost seemed like there was oak there. But with more air it had a nutty edge verging on Gruyere cheese (and I do mean the real Swiss stuff) and green apple skins. (So this also had the sweet-savoury quality.) Unfortunately, whether fresh from the bottle or with some air, the palate just isn’t as good as the Suavia. It's overly astringent for the flavour and body, and only carries a lemony-flavoured freshness (which is very nice in itself, but isn’t enough).
They’re both 12.5% abv (so the weight due to the alcohol is about the same in each), but whilst the Tamellini is enjoyable, it’s palate pales in comparison to the Suavia... and the Suavia is cheaper too.