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WTN: Dutruch Grand Poujeaux, Kaseler Nies'chen, R.Conero

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Tim York

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WTN: Dutruch Grand Poujeaux, Kaseler Nies'chen, R.Conero

by Tim York » Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:54 am

Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux cru bourgeois Moulis-en-Médoc 2006 – Alc.13% - (c.€14), made from Merlot 49%, Cabernet Sauvignon 46% and Petit Verdot. I don’t normally drink left-bank claret as young as this but I was emboldened by the wine’s charming showing at an Autumn tasting. The aromas showed vigorous red and dark fruit, a dab of leather and inoffensively discreet vanilla from as yet undigested wood treatment. Body was full, texture and tannins quite firm and fruit vigorous and expressive enhanced by an earthy minerality. I wouldn’t be sure of its developing with ageing a complexity which compensates for receding primary fruit but it is very attractive right now. Perhaps the unusually high proportion of Merlot helped accessibility; 16/20 QPR.

Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett – 28 - 1994 - Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Alc.8.5%. The nose was initially heavily petrol orientated and was contaminated by rusty metallic odours from the neck of the slightly ullaged bottle; towards the end it balanced better with floral and white fruit notes coming up and the metal receding. The palate was seamless with the bright Ruwer acidity, slight sweetness, minerals and white fruit fully integrated and well balanced but it was perhaps more up-front and shorter than ideal. I recall earlier bottles as having more magic. Just 16/20.

Rosso Conero Piancarda 2005 – Garofoli – Alc. 13.5% - (€8), made from Montepulciano. I have commented on this fine QPR wine before but it is now showing show interesting and, for now, attractive evolution. It adds new notes of orange feel, old books and fine oil to its full dark fruit, decent acidity and tobacco and tar hints. While none of this presages a long life ahead, it adds a complexity which is very appealing in an entry level RC; right now 16/20 QPR!!.
Tim York

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