WTN: 2004 Patrick Jasmin Côte Rôtie

2004 Patrick Jasmin Côte Rôtie 12.5%
Starts with nostrinal imbalance, a whack of vanillin overwhelming the blackberries and tar, but segues into a lovely harmony of flavors, fine acid/sweet balance, gentle tannins and no sign of dreaded excess wood. And, for a syrah from the roast coast, 12.5% alcohol is surely the mark of a true gentleman. Currently drinking very well, it vanished from our presence with alarming rapidity; I only wish my nose did not have to traverse so much vanilla, standing like a sentinel, on its way to the lovely liquid.

I wonder if there’s a Faustian pact of sorts going on here: higher % of new wood allows greater natural micro-ox, softer tannins and easier/earlier approachability, but the cost is the flavor of wood. Ugh. Perhaps all that is needed here is more time for the vanillin to integrate (read: disappear), but some winemakers claim that only certain varieties have enough “structure” to benefit from the natural micro-ox of new wood without acquiring its flavor (Luis Pato, for example, thinks that Baga can pull it off, but not Touriga). Just ruminating.

In the last couple of years Jasmin's 1996 has been delicious with no vanilla at all that I can remember. Maybe Jasmin has changed his method or perhaps the 04 is just too young. I haven't opened any of my N.Rhône 04s yet.

Oswaldo, surprised you found vanillin on the Jasmin. I've been drinking (and loving) his wines since the 1983 vintage and old wood is the philosophy there, but perhaps they had a couple replaced that year. Jasmin's wines are repeat purchases for me, and the Cote Rotie producer I have the most of, so I have this year and will check back sometime over the next few years. I like these with about 9-12 years on them, but the 04 will probably mature faster than the 05 or 06. 2000 is great to drink now and is very pure. If you can find a bottle, try one.

I was surprised by oak comments too, but haven't had a recent Jasmin. Too bad.

This is where one needs Claude Kolm.

Alternatively, one could search archives on the sites where he participates because I'm sure he has answered this before.

And indeed, Claude just chimed in elsewhere to say that Jasmin uses demi-muids, 25% of which are new.

Oswaldo, surprised you found vanillin on the Jasmin. I've been drinking (and loving) his wines since the 1983 vintage and old wood is the philosophy there, but perhaps they had a couple replaced that year. Jasmin's wines are repeat purchases for me, and the Cote Rotie producer I have the most of, so I have this year and will check back sometime over the next few years. I like these with about 9-12 years on them, but the 04 will probably mature faster than the 05 or 06. 2000 is great to drink now and is very pure. If you can find a bottle, try one.

Hi, Mark, I was surprised too. Eric Texier had mentioned elsewhere that Jasmin's 04 was drinking well now, so I opened one, though rather young, just to check it out. Thanks for the tip on the 2000, will seek it out.

And indeed, Claude just chimed in elsewhere to say that Jasmin uses demi-muids, 25% of which are new.

Demi-muid is like tonneaux, 500-600L?

Yes, I think it's usually 550-600L.

Claude Kolm also said that in a year like 2004 that might have been a little too much.

[David M. Bueker]

I have a sense that most producers are not going to go through some evaluation about modifying their vinification techniques each year. Sure Jadot may do it, but I think most have their house "style" and stick to it regardless.

In the case of a wine like the 2004 Jasmin (which I have had & did not find objectionably woody - though I am more oak tolerant than many here) a little time may indeed blend the vanilla you perceived into the greater weave of the wine.

2004 Patrick Jasmin Côte Rôtie 12.5%
Starts with nostrinal imbalance, a whack of vanillin overwhelming the blackberries and tar, but segues into a lovely harmony of flavors, fine acid/sweet balance, gentle tannins and no sign of dreaded excess wood. And, for a syrah from the roast coast, 12.5% alcohol is surely the mark of a true gentleman. Currently drinking very well, it vanished from our presence with alarming rapidity; I only wish my nose did not have to traverse so much vanilla, standing like a sentinel, on its way to the lovely liquid.

I wonder if there’s a Faustian pact of sorts going on here: higher % of new wood allows greater natural micro-ox, softer tannins and easier/earlier approachability, but the cost is the flavor of wood. Ugh. Perhaps all that is needed here is more time for the vanillin to integrate (read: disappear), but some winemakers claim that only certain varieties have enough “structure” to benefit from the natural micro-ox of new wood without acquiring its flavor (Luis Pato, for example, thinks that Baga can pull it off, but not Touriga). Just ruminating.

I have to say that, for the record, this is an extremely well written note, even by the high standards of this forum.