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Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

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Brian Gilp

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Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Wed Mar 03, 2010 1:53 pm

Took a spur of the moment one day trip on Saturday.

First stop is Linden Vineyards. I really appreciate all of the Linden wines. A solid line up accross the board. I am predominately a red wine drinker and the current releases are very good with my favorite being the 2006 Hardscrable Red. I could not find any fault with this wine. Well balanced and the structure to age and improve for years. 13.2% alcohol and while I could drink a lot of this now its obvious that it should be better in 5 years. The 2006 Avenius Redhas a noticable acidity that I found somewhat distracting when tasted next to the hardscrablle. The funny thing is that it was my normally acid averse wife that said she thought the Avenius would be a better food wine and ensured we bought at least a few bottles. The only 2007 red currently available is the Claret which had a great nose but failed to follow through in the taste being just a touch light and in comparision dilute. However it is the Chardonnays that I think are the real winners here. I liked them all but for the few dollars difference between the basic Chardonnay and the 2007 Hardscrabble Chardonnay there is no reason in my mind to buy anything else. This wine retails at the winery for $26 before any case discounts and in my opinion blows away any sub $30 Chard I have had in the past couple years. This is a buy by the case wine because as lovely as it is now, I think it is going to get better for a number of years and have a long life after that. Everyone knew 2007 was special in Virginia and this is the first sign of how much we can expect from the vintage. For those that wonder if Virigina reds can age, we tasted the 2002 Cabernet Franc and it was pure velvet. It was an amazing example of what these wines can become with a few years on them. Unfortunately the wine is no longer available for sale except by the glass at the winery.

Next stop is Naked Mountain. Not my favorite place but my wife wanted to stop to see the dog and cat and she did like the Chardonnay years ago. Before we get all the way to the winery I see trouble. The white stretch limo is a sign of what's to come. Sure enough the inside of the tasting room is more like a Chucky Cheese than a quality winery. We decide to try two wines, pick one for the sympathy bottle and move on to the next stop. The chardonnay is an oak filled mess. The Chardonnay/Riesling is drinkable.

Final stop is the Boxwood tasting room. The winery is by appointment only but there is a tasting room in the center of town a few miles away. Boxwood only makes three wines. As they describe it a right bank (Topiary) bordeaux style blend and a left balnk blend (Boxwood) as well as a rose. The rose is very smooth and well priced for $12. Boxwood made a wine from purchased grapes in 2005 - avoid. The 2006 wines both had a little funk on the nose that I found off putting. My wife called it eucalyptus. The 2007 though are the real deal. Well integrated, no funk, smooth wines that again show the ripe but not overripe fruit one would expect from 2007. To my surprise I much prefered the Cabernet Sauvignon based Boxwood to the Merlot/Caberent Franc Topiary. I think this has to be another sign of the vintage as generally the Virgnia Cabernet Sauvignon is not up to the standard of the Merlot or Cabernet Franc. This is defiently a winery to watch.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Kelly Young » Wed Mar 03, 2010 3:42 pm

Thanks for these updates. I've been curious about some of the local producers, notably Chrysalis, but have yet to have sampled much less made the trek to any. I've always thought that the weather around here would be to hot and humid for some of the wines folks are trying in VA.
Last edited by Kelly Young on Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David M. Bueker » Wed Mar 03, 2010 4:53 pm

Kelly,

If you are going to day trip from DC you want to hit Linden or perhaps Barboursville (different directions, so not on the same trip). I haven't yet tried Boxwood, so cannot yet comment, but the former two are among the stars of Virginia (and darned good by nearly any measure).
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David Mc » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:09 pm

I've visited several VA wineries. Here is a quick run down:

1. Barboursville http://www.barboursvillewine.net/wine. One of the first wineries in VA (established in 1976). Their octagon is really good, with the rest of the reds and white decent.

2. Horton http://hortonwine.com/. I thought all of the wines were a mess but people rave about the Viognier.

3. Prince Michel http://www.princemichel.com/princemichel/index.jsp. Tasting room built for the tour buses but overall the I thought the wines were OK for the price (although the Merlot was awful).

4. Burnleyhttp://www.burnleywines.com/. Keep driving.

5. White Hall http://www.whitehallvineyards.com/. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Gewurtz were pretty good (the gewurt has a nice rose aroma!) as well as the Cabernet Franc. The cab and merlot were OK. Their Breakheart Red broke my heart.

I'll be in Charlottesville VA next month for the weekend, and plan to hit a few around there.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:12 pm

Kelly Young wrote: I've always thought that there weather around here would be to hot and humid for some of the wines folks are trying in VA.


In many cases it is too hot and humid. In other cases its all about location. Go to Linden and see the Hardscrabble vineyard and it will become a lot clearer. The elevation, slope, and eastern exposure make a big difference.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:16 pm

David McIntire wrote:2. Horton http://hortonwine.com/. I thought all of the wines were a mess but people raved about the Viognier.


Fixed it for you. I have not heard anyone rave about anything from Horton in some time. Its a shame really as many of the wines showed much promise. Besides the viognier there was the tannat, petit manseng, and the Dio which was his take on a duro red blend.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David Mc » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:28 pm

Brian Gilp wrote:
David McIntire wrote:2. Horton http://hortonwine.com/. I thought all of the wines were a mess but people raved about the Viognier.


Fixed it for you. I have not heard anyone rave about anything from Horton in some time. Its a shame really as many of the wines showed much promise. Besides the viognier there was the tannat, petit manseng, and the Dio which was his take on a duro red blend.


Thanks Brian. It's been a few years since I've been to Horton but I was unimpressed (maybe because I had just been to Barboursville). I really enjoyed White Hall and will plan to visit Linden on my way to C-Ville next month.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:31 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:). I haven't yet tried Boxwood, so cannot yet comment,


This was my first time tasting them and to be honest its hard to assess. There is such a quality jump form 2005 to 2006 and yet again to 2007 that this could be the next top flight winery in the state. The question I have is if it is learning curve or vintage. Throw out the 2005 as the grapes were purchased and there are only two vintages to go from. The 2006 are in my opinion good but not at the quality level of Barboursville or Linden. The 2007s are at that quality level but 2007 was an almost perfect year in Virginia.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Mark S » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:47 pm

Brian Gilp wrote:... pick one for the sympathy bottle and move on to the next stop.


love it! I'll have to remember that phrase.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David Mc » Wed Mar 31, 2010 2:58 pm

Brian Gilp wrote:
David McIntire wrote:2. Horton http://hortonwine.com/. I thought all of the wines were a mess but people raved about the Viognier.


Fixed it for you. I have not heard anyone rave about anything from Horton in some time. Its a shame really as many of the wines showed much promise. Besides the viognier there was the tannat, petit manseng, and the Dio which was his take on a duro red blend.


Interesting, from today's Washington Post:

Horton's 2008 Viognier ($20, ** 1/2) is consistently one of the state's best and most widely available.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/03/30/AR2010033000830.html
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:17 pm

Well O.K. If its in the post......

Maybe its me or maybe they have returned to form. I stopped buying the Viognier from Horton years ago after many vintages that I felt were disapointing. I stopped buying all wine from Horton soon thereafter. I still really appreciate Dennis and all they time he took to talk to me about growing grapes in the mid-Atlantic region. I wish him nothing but the best but I have zero Horton wine in my cellar right now having consumed my final bottle of 2000 Tannat earlier this year. For reference I have six cases (at least) between Linden, Boxwood, and Barboursville plus the odd bottle from Veritas, Ingleside Plantation, Naked Mountain and I may still have some Wintergreen.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by James Roscoe » Wed Mar 31, 2010 6:36 pm

Who writes that stuff in The Post anyway? :mrgreen:

Barboursville and Linden are great, but there are a bunch of nice wineries out there. Get the '07 Cab. Franc while it is still available!
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Jim Brennan » Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:56 pm

I thought this was going to be about '97 Harlan...
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David Mc » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:48 pm

Brian Gilp wrote:Final stop is the Boxwood tasting room. The winery is by appointment only but there is a tasting room in the center of town a few miles away. Boxwood only makes three wines. As they describe it a right bank (Topiary) bordeaux style blend and a left balnk blend (Boxwood) as well as a rose. The rose is very smooth and well priced for $12. Boxwood made a wine from purchased grapes in 2005 - avoid. The 2006 wines both had a little funk on the nose that I found off putting. My wife called it eucalyptus. The 2007 though are the real deal. Well integrated, no funk, smooth wines that again show the ripe but not overripe fruit one would expect from 2007. To my surprise I much prefered the Cabernet Sauvignon based Boxwood to the Merlot/Caberent Franc Topiary. I think this has to be another sign of the vintage as generally the Virgnia Cabernet Sauvignon is not up to the standard of the Merlot or Cabernet Franc. This is defiently a winery to watch.


It looks like MacArthur's is adding Boxwood. From the latest newsletter:

UPDATE: Boxwood Winery just added

We are delighted to include the wines from Virginia's best winery in the Derenoncourt tasting on Tuesday April 20 at Matisse Restaurant. Stephane Derenoncourt has been the consultant winemaker of Boxwood Winery in Middleburg, VA since 2006. Owned and operated by John Kent Cooke and his step-daughter Rachel, Boxwood was designed to produce the best wines possible on the east coast of the US from Bordeaux grape varieties. This will be a unique opportunity to taste these wines along with Bordeaux wines made by the world renown winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt.
Boxwood Rose 2009 14.99 12.99
Boxwood Topiary red 2007 29.99 24.99
Boxwood Estate red 2007 29.99 24.99
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by James Roscoe » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:24 pm

Have you been out to Boxwood lately David? My memory is that it was unimpressive.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Tue Apr 20, 2010 7:49 am

David McIntire wrote:It looks like MacArthur's is adding Boxwood


Actually they have been carrying Boxwood for at least a few months now. Not sure how long but they had it in the store prior to my trip there in March.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Tue Apr 20, 2010 7:51 am

James Roscoe wrote:Have you been out to Boxwood lately David? My memory is that it was unimpressive.


James, it depends upon what you tasted. The 2007s are impressive and we just picked up some of the 2008 rose which is as good if not better than the 2007 rose. As I noted before, I would not have been as impressed if I had not tasted the 2007s.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David Mc » Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:45 am

James Roscoe wrote:Have you been out to Boxwood lately David? My memory is that it was unimpressive.


Have not been to Boxwood - it was on my list for this past weekend but I didn't make it.

However, I did go to Jefferson Vineyards and Keswick Vineyards. I don't have the tasting notes in front of me now but Jefferson was all around very good, both white and reds, and Keswick has some good whites, with the reds somewhat lacking.

From memory:

Jefferson
Chardonnay - they had both chardonnay aged in stainless steel and neutral oak and both were very good. I don't usually like Chardonnay (at least the stuff I buy) but I would buy these.
Viognier - also very good, it didn't have that "off-taste" in most viognier I've tried. Had subtle tropical flavors that didn't over power.
Cabernet Franc - pretty good, drinkable but could use some aging.
Merlot - awful: can anyone make a decent merlot in Virginia?
Petit Verdot - very tannic and heavy with tobacco flavors, would go well with a cuban cigar!

Keswick
Chardonnay - they had some aged in neutral barrels and new french oak. Pretty good but the new oak had that buttery flavor I don't care for.
Verdejo - tasted just like a bottle I had from spain a few months ago and that's a good thing.
Viognier - also pretty good but missing something
Viognier (2009 Les Vents d'Anges Viognier): I absolutely loved this wine! It has a bit of residual sugar (I don't remember the number) so it was a tad sweet. The tropical flavors were powerful, especially peach.
Cabernet Franc - OK, nothing special
Consensus - gimmick wine in that the wine club members make a blended wine and vote on the best, the winner is consensus. I vote no.

Overall, I would give the edge to Jefferson.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Carl Eppig » Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:50 am

Brian and David, have either of you stumbled upon a decent Norton in your recent adventures? We were fans of the one from Horton (I know Horton Norton sounds cute) a few years back. We used to get it by the case load.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:37 am

David McIntire wrote:Jefferson
Merlot - awful: can anyone make a decent merlot in Virginia?


The Octagon from Barboursville is a merlot based blend and mighty nice if a tad expensive. Also talked with Jim Law at Linden about merlot a few years back and he is planting more and more of it as he is really liking the way it works for him. I have not checked to see how much the blends are changing but I assume from that conversation that you will see the percentage of merlot increase in them over the coming vintages.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Brian Gilp » Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:39 am

Carl Eppig wrote:Brian and David, have either of you stumbled upon a decent Norton in your recent adventures? We were fans of the one from Horton (I know Horton Norton sounds cute) a few years back. We used to get it by the case load.


I have not. Unfortunately I have also stopped looking. I don't think I like Norton having never found one I liked.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by David M. Bueker » Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:47 am

Ever since Horton decided to be big rather than good I have not tasted a decent Norton.
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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Glenn Mackles » Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:33 pm

As a resident of Virginia, I have been to a number of wineries (not as many as I would like) and have sampled quite a bit of Virginia wine. Although it is a gross overgeneralization, I view Virginia wine at this point in time as a very promising child that still doesn't know what it wants to be when it grows up. Virginia winemaking has grown exponentially over the last 20 years. New wineries seem to pop up (and change hands) every year. Many of them don't seem to know exactly what they want to grow or market. I visited one a couple of weeks ago that was growing 18 different varieties of grapes. Many wineries seem to put out different wines and vastly different blends almost every year. I have been to wineries that seem to put more attention to wine tours, tasting rooms and marketing than they do to the actual wines. What I see is the fact that many wineries are so new that they really don't know what grapes will grow best on their soil so they are trying everything and seeing what sticks. The Old World has literally had hundreds if not thousands of years to determine and perfect what works on their terroir. In Virginia, farms are being converted to vinyards almost at random but with no history of wine making whatsoever. Despite all of this some good wines are being produced... more each year. So in short, it's a wild and exciting ride in Virginia. There is huge potential but it will take a long time to straighten it out to be making consistent products with established reputations accross the board.

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Re: Quick VA Trip (Linden, Naked Mountain, Boxwood)

by Ed Comstock » Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:59 pm

Linden rocks. I liken it to having a mid-level Loire-style wine maker an hour outside of D.C. The lovely Sauv Blanc Avenius always has that firm/elegant paradox going for it. And the best of the un-oakey Chards can be ringers for Chablis. I'm slightly less sold on the reds, but would still take them over most of what's coming out of California.

You are right that there is an identity crisis in VA, but the problem is that too many want to make California style (or modern Bordeaux style) wines when they both can't and shouldn't. Linden is the exception.
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