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WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Dale Williams » Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:04 am

Last night SOBER convened at Mike's house, we were greeted with the NV Bernard Bremont "Cuvee Prestige" Brut Champagne and smoked salmon canapes with goat cheese. The Champagne was absolutely lovely- full bodied but with a fine and delicate (yet intense) mousse, beautiful clean apple and citrus fruit, fresh baked brioche, and a little chalky mineral edge to the finish. Absolutely lovely NV. A-

We proceeded to table, and the blind wines starting coming

First flight with tortellini in broth with garlic bread

1- Sweet ripe red cherries, light oak notes, a little leather. I think I liked this better than the table. 1997 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino B

2- Oak, dense heavy fruit with a plodding finish, a little disjointed. Big, tannins a bit drying. John decides this is a 97 Brunello, and he's correct. 1997 Altesino Montosoli Brunello di Montalcino. B-/C+

3- Most divisive wine, some found too bretty, but to me the light notes of horse sweat and manure were easily within my tolerance level. Nice black cherry fruit, leather, finer tannins. 1997 Pertimali (Sasseti) Brunello di Montalcino. B+

Now, I went to Italy, perhaps due to the food match, and Tuscany because it didn't seem like Nebbiolo. Others were surer of Brunello, I was thinking something like 1990 CCR. We varied in how much we liked these, but even those of us who liked were I think surprised how mature most of them seemed already

Second flight with pumpkin lunes with sausage and foccacia

4- Big, a bit tight, structured. Ripe fruit, mint and tar. John and Mark both opine Nebbiolo, seems reasonable to me. I like, and it gets better with air. 1996 G. Conterno "Cascina Francia" Barolo B+/A-

5- Ripe cherries and a little meat, a tarry note that makes me think this might be Nebbiolo too. Short, not near as appealing. 1998 JL Colombo "Les Ruchets" Cornas. B-

6- Kirsch, mint, and coffee. A little bit of VA, alcohol sticking out a bit. Short finish. Not a fan. 2003 Clos de Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape C+

Third flight with braised short ribs, broccoli, potatoes, and cornbread

7- Meat, oak, ripe fruit with John says Northern Rhone, maybe a modernista Cote Rotie. He's close, it's the 1990 Jaboulet "La Chapelle" Hermitage B-

8- Cassis and black cherry, a bit of oak, still some tannins. I'm guessing Bordeaux, though with a few hints we get Madiran, 1989 Chateau D'Aydie Madiran B/B+

9- Dan says Amarone early, I don't think it's long enough. Soft, REALLY ripe, REALLY sweet, running a bit hot. 1999 Quintarelli Valpolicella C

Wow, an eye opener. Couple people say they've had several less than thrilling experiences with the 90 La Chapelle, so this isn't a one-off. Of course, other people (not at this tasting!) still consider it a 100 pointer, so who knows what's variation. I think I would have regarded the Quintarelli a bit better if I had known what it was, it was kind of out of context, but it's a hard wine to judge next to dry table wines.

Fourth Flight with -cheese (fresh curd, 3 yr Maine Cheddar, Humbolt Fog, Umbriacone)

OK, at last an easy flight, Dan and I agree in one minute all Bordeaux.

10- Big structured ripe, Dan goes to St Julien. Young, black currants and plums, some oak. 2000 Clos du Marquis (St Julien) B

11- Sweet cassis, integrated oak, young. Divisive wine, with some finding it over manipulated, but I quite enjoy, and it's my #2 blind WOTN. 2000 Leoville las Cases (St Julien) B+

12- Sweet dark fruit, coffee, oak. Somewhat exotuc nose is better than the palate. Some others dislike. 2000 Pape Clement (Pessac-Leognan). B

1989 Lingenfelder Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
I didn't note if there was a vineyard designation to this. Dark color, apricots and candied apples, citrus zest, medium acids. Not compelling, but a nice dessert wine at a good price (recently purchased at $60/half).

Fun and informative night. The high scorers weren't neccessarily my favorites. Thanks Michael.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Salil » Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:28 am

Wow, eye opening lineup - interesting to see a couple of such heavily lauded wines falling so short in a blind environment. Thanks for the notes.
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by AlexR » Wed Mar 03, 2010 6:20 pm

Wow, Dale, you say you are an easy grader, but either many of the wines that evening were sub-par, or you were particularly analytical...

As for 2000 LLC and Pape Clément, these are babies.
OK, kindergartners.


All the best,
Alex R.
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Bernard Roth

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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Bernard Roth » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:45 pm

I don't get the idea of serving Brunello with Brodo. It cannot have helped the wine.
Regards,
Bernard Roth
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Dale Williams » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:13 pm

Salil, just my opinions, but I don't think I was an outlier for the group (which includes several long term ITB people, and virtually all have more experience than I do). I gave one member (who works at a big auction house) a ride to train
after, he said that he's had the 90 La Chappelle 3 times in last 18 months with no wows. Plus we discussed auction prices at dinner- he said that the prices for the 90 La Chapelle have come down lately even as other prices rose. I know people will say provenance, but this was well stored for a long time.

Alex, I make no claims of consistency, and probably grade harder at SOBER events (where quality is quite high) than say at home. The Bordeaux probably deserve a bit of a bump for potential. But the LLC - while one of my faves- certainly didn't approach perfection.

Bernard, wouldn't have been my first choice, but it didn't clash for my tastes. Wines were served before dish, and were still there when dishes were cleared, and my notes were pretty consistent. I'm sure a big steak would have made the tannin issue with the Altesino less apparent, but I don't think anyone would have loved the wine.
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Mark S » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:38 pm

Dale Williams wrote:10- Big structured ripe, Dan goes to St Julien. Young, black currants and plums, some oak. 2000 Clos du Marquis (St Julien) B


Dale, this has shown more like a B+ to me, from a recent bottle. Perhaps the Bordeaux were 'off' that night? (I notice the scores weren't bringing home the thunder)
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Craig Ganzer » Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:01 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I gave one member (who works at a big auction house) a ride to train
after, he said that he's had the 90 La Chappelle 3 times in last 18 months with no wows. Plus we discussed auction prices at dinner- he said that the prices for the 90 La Chapelle have come down lately even as other prices rose. I know people will say provenance, but this was well stored for a long time.


Hey, that's me!

Yes, La Chapelle 1990 now officially ranks as my Most Overrated Wine that is not Young Chateauneuf. I think Dale's B- is extraordinarily generous. I described it as "pickle juice" and was not even slightly tempted to do anything other than spill the rest out after I was done trying to puzzle it out. I like Hermitage a lot and while I'd love to believe that this is not what the wine is supposed to be, it's now shown very consistently that way, and I have heard many similar stories over the past couple of years.

I don't have my notes here, but I disliked the Clos des Papes, Montosoli, Pape Clement and Quintarelli; was neutral on most; and quite liked the Las Cases, although I didn't think it was better than a low 90s wine.
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:39 pm

Mark says I'm grading too hard, Craig says I'm too easy, I'm feeling good!

Mark, believe me no sane person would believe there is a true objective difference between a wine I graded B and one I graded B+. :)
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by AlexR » Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:30 am

Dale,

Your comments do make one wonder about the whole point of a grading system :|

Seriously, it's a case of damned if you do, and damned if you don't.

All the best,
Alex
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Tim York » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:12 am

Rhône experts tell me that there is a lot of bottling run variability on La Chapelle. I myself have had sumptuous and disappointing bottles of the famous 78 and a disappointing one on the much praised 96; I am praying that my own bottles of 96 are from a good bottling run.
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Re: WTN: 100 pointers and others with SOBER

by Dale Williams » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:46 am

AlexR wrote:Your comments do make one wonder about the whole point of a grading system :|


Alex, as I note, I make no claims of consistency. But for me there is a purpose for my system, because at least when I review I know I liked the LLC better than the Clos du Marquis, both more than the La Chapelle or Clos des Papes, etc. I don't claim any validity other than on THAT night I liked one more than the other. That wouldn't work for a professional critic, but no one is making buying decisions based on my grades. Looking back on wines that I've graded several times, generally I'm same ballpark, but with definite variation.

Tim, I've heard the same thing about the La Chapelle. I don't drink enough at that level to comment intelligently. I will say that on lower level negociant wines (P45 and Jalets Crozes) I've often proclaimed Jaboulet the king of bottle/lot variation.

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