WTN: Arrowood, Taltarni, Clos Marquis, old Swan, Barolo

[Jenise]

Impressions of a few recent wines:

2004 Taltarni Shiraz, Moonambel, Pyrenees region of Victoria, Australia: I tend to love syrah when it comes from the Rhone and be ambivalent about it when it comes from anywhere else these days. The sweeter, richer, higher alcohol models produced outside of France (sweeping generalization but fair) hold absolutely no appeal. I therefore was amazed that I didn't just like, but actually loved, this Ozzie. Oh sure, the 03 I reported on separately a few weeks ago was impressive, but this 04, poured and enjoyed separately, the whole bottle with no other distractions, was even more so, especially in light of my newly acquired knowledge about price: $9.99. This is an "Are you kidding me?" kind of wine, that anything THIS good is possible at THIS low a price. And it's pure French in style: elegant, restrained, red to dark red fruit, savory characteristics, great balance, some length, French oak and a French winemaker. For my tastes, this is the best syrah QPR EVER.

1999 Clos du Marquis: Selected to pair with a lamb/red wine/herb meatloaf. In a good place right now with a bit of cool herbaceousness toning the black fruit. Probably not much longer for this world, but quite good.

1995 Joseph Swan Estate Pinot Noir, Sonoma: I let houseguests choose a wine from the cellar, and this (second to last of a case I bought eons ago) was their pick. Great maturing fruit that seems younger than it's 15 years especially in light of the surprisingly aggressive tannins. Probably nobody else is hanging onto these, but my take on what I tasted here is that the tannins will be the last man standing so there's little or no point in waiting for more balance. I'll hang onto my remaining bottle just in case I'm wrong, though.

2005 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley: my new house red. I picked up two cases for an astonishing $16/bottle. A big wine, deliciously herbal in the nose on first pour that integrated with time into the solid, black cherry and blackberry fruit with a bit of licorice. Was 05 a cool year? Would think so, this is kind of like a Napa Valley answer to Sociando Mallet. For a Bordeaux fan's taste, fantastic. VERY satisfied with this purchase.

2004 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo, Piedmont: brought to dinner by the aforementioned house guests who purchased it earlier in the day at Pete's Market in Seattle. Decanted about six hours before dinner for airtime (no sediment noted). WOW. Surprisingly drinkable for a young Barolo without sacrificing any of the grandeur of what great Barolo can be. Well-matched with osso bucco and a fresh black truffle risotto, the wine had us all swooning. Need to get me some of this!

Jenise
I've not yet tried Taltarni in it's post Dominique Portet incarnation. In the old days it not only aged well, but positively demanded time in the cellar due to somewhat overbearing tannins. I have just one bottle remaining in the cellar - a 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve that I'll probably open in the next year or two.

I understand that with the new style, the wall of tannins has gone, but was a little worried that it might just end up as 'just another fruity aussie red'. Your note clearly indicates otherwise

As for the Barolo, this is a favourite producer of the brains of the operation. We have some reserve bottles from 1999, but have been good to keep our hands off them. It's also a producer where decent old bottles can occasionally surface.

regards

Ian

[Jenise]

Jenise
I've not yet tried Taltarni in it's post Dominique Portet incarnation. In the old days it not only aged well, but positively demanded time in the cellar due to somewhat overbearing tannins. I have just one bottle remaining in the cellar - a 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve that I'll probably open in the next year or two.

I understand that with the new style, the wall of tannins has gone, but was a little worried that it might just end up as 'just another fruity aussie red'. Your note clearly indicates otherwise

As for the Barolo, this is a favourite producer of the brains of the operation. We have some reserve bottles from 1999, but have been good to keep our hands off them. It's also a producer where decent old bottles can occasionally surface.

regards

Ian

We fell in love with Taltarni wines when living in Alaska in the early 90's, both the cabernet and shiraz. It was right on the cusp of, and possibly responsible for, me discovering that my newbie love affair with the big oak/fruit California style was over. The wines were funky and traditional then, and it was memorably the first time I'd ever tasted green olives in red wine. And I loved that. The 03 and 04 did not remind me of those--I didn't find funk or green olives--but neither were they just another fruity Aussie red. The 'Frenchness' is more than evident.

The Barolo--what a surprise. I've never had a young Barolo (usually opened by a well-meaning friend who doesn't understand Barolo) that didn't make me think "oh what a shame, this is way too soon". None of us regretted opening this one.