Here are my notes from this week, four bottles fresh from the cellar. I kick off with some fizz, from two of the leading Saumur-based producers:
Bouvet-Ladubay Saumur Rosé Excellence NV: I picked this bottle up late last year for the purpose of unfussy drinking, and it has just taken me a while to get around to it. This is 100% Cabernet Franc, pressed and given skin contact for colour at the domaine/vineyard of origin, the juice then delivered to Bouvet-Ladubay, where it is fermented in new oak before the méthode traditionelle in bottle. To the eye it has a peachy-pink sunset hue and a plentiful, youthful bead. There follows a nose of gentle summer fruits, strawberries, redcurrants tinged with cream, green pears too, but also an appealing, pebbly-stony note. The palate has the same impression, well defined summer fruits, alongside pebbles rolled in the mouth, and notes of nettles, A good fresh mousse, and a sappy finish, quite sharp and incisive though. Nicely textured. Good wine. 16/20
Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Quadrille 2001: A couple of weeks ago I visited Langlois-Chateau, first for a tasting of the 2009 vins clairs, second for dinner (at which I was more impressed than I expected to be by the still wines, more on that when I write up my notes). On the way out this gift was thrust into my hand, so there's my disclosure as to the origin of this bottle. A good, rich-golden colour in the glass, especially for the Loire. The nose is similarly rich, with evolved and leesy aromas of honey and Brazil nuts, and some of this character comes through on the palate too, alongside notes of orange peel and dried toffee. Yet there is a very dry texture, with a stony feel to it, the texture of fruit grown predominantly on the limestone around Saumur. The midpalate concentration could be a little broader though. Overall it is a nice wine, although admittedly I find the richer autolytic character elements rather incongruous alongside the lovely and Saumur-typical elements of citrus and stone. The 2002, tasted at Langlois-Chateau, was far superior and I would have no problem recommending that vintage over this. 15.5/20
Next up two examples of Chenin Blanc, two completely different styles. Number one, a Vouvray from flinty soils and a warm vintage, number two a rich, ageing sweet wine from Quarts de Chaume, one of two micro-appellations for sweet wines which I tend to associate with the Coteaux du Layon, the other being Bonnezeaux.
Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée de Silex 2003: I first tasted this at the domaine in 2004 and bought some, impressed by how fresh and defined it seemed in a hot vintage (that isn't to deny the wine is a bit fatter or that the acidity seems more gentle than is usual). A lovely hue, pure and golden in the glass, and a fresh fruit-laden nose, full of pears and crystalline stone fruit, with minerals alongside. Cool and fresh on the palate, although with a beautiful and broad creamy texture. There is substance here, a savoury and mineral grip, and elegantly defined edges. Pears, mint, bay and more, all sugar-crusted, although with no sweetness. It doesn't have much in the way of overt acidity, but it has plenty of freshness and definition, and a gently fading finish. Not a wine for every day for sure, but with a beautiful texture, flavour and presence this is lovely for sipping. Five years ago I wrote "drink over the next five years" but clearly it will go longer than that. Of note, I was tasting the latest releases with Bernard Fouquet at the Salon in February and in recent vintages this cuvée has been bottled under screwcap. 17/20
Chateau Bellerive Quarts de Chaume 1990: This is an old favourite of mine, and although it doesn't have the crystalline purity and intensity you can get from the appellation from the leading names today, it has always given a gently-presented complexity backed up by a rich, Demerara-sugar sweetness. As always a rich, burnished orange-gold in the glass, and the nose is very true to previous bottles, with notes of dry, honey-tinged botrytis, straw and brown sugar. Although the nose is very evolved, there is still plenty of sweetness on the palate, plenty of flesh and depth too. There are nuances of orange peel, marmalade and dried honey, with a slightly bitter, herbal, sage and thyme nuance beneath it all. These bottles continue to evolve in interesting ways, and they drink well, although perhaps they aren't quite as impressive as they were a few years ago (or my palate has changed!). Nevertheless, delicious and, true to form, very easy to drink. 18/20