by Daniel Rogov » Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:58 pm
Not too long ago, I attended a tasting of Georgian wines. Be thee curious if thee like.....
Best
Rogov
Teliani, Tsinandali, 2004: A crisply dry white, based on Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes. Fermented and developed in stainless steel, the wine shows appealing if not somewhat subdued citrus, apple and peach aromas and flavors. A summertime quaffer. Drink now. Score 84.
Teliani, Teli, 2004: Based on Kakhuri Mtsvane grapes, this dark golden wine was fermented and then developed sur lie in French oak barrels. Lots of toasty oak and strong vanilla that tends to hold back the melon, citrus and apple aromas and flavors. Drink up. Score 83.
Teliani, Saperavi, 2004: Lightly oak-aged, made entirely from Saperavi grapes, with almost potent volatile acidity and chunky country-style tannins but those yielding in the glass to reveal spicy cedar, vanilla as well as berry and currant fruits. Simple but pleasant. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 82.
Teliani, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Oak aged, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Not much in the way of tannins or alcohol (only 11.5%) in this medium-bodied red but enough acidity here to make your mouth pucker and with flavors of sour cherries dominating those of plums and currants. A simple entry-level wine. Drink up. Score 78.
Teliani, Mukuzani, 2004: Made entirely of Saperavi grapes, medium- to full-bodied, with hints of spicy oak and soft tannins integrating nicely and appealing berry, currant and plum fruits. A perhaps too generous overlay of Brett here that will not appeal to everyone. Drink now. Score 83.
Teliani, Khvanchkara, 2004: Demonstrating the Georgian love of things sweet, this wine is categorized as half-dry but in fact is quite sweet. A low alcohol (11.2%) blend of Murjuetuli and Aleksandrouli grapes, soft and round and reminiscent of nice strawberry jam. People who like this kind of thing will like this wine. Drink now. Score 76.
Teliani, Kindzmarauli, 2004: Truly half dry, with 11.3% alcohol, and with surprising smoothness and roundness. Not much on the nose but on the palate generous jammy blackberries. Best as a dessert served quite well chilled. Drink now. Sore 78. (Tasted 27 Apr 2006)
And now the good news. Georgia sparkling wines (invariably made by the Charmat method) are just fine .....but only if placed in the freezer until the bottle is half frozen. The moment the ice disappears, discard the bottle and and open aother for when served anything but ice cold you will fullly understand Jancis Robinson's comment about "cat's pee on a mulberry busy"
Best
Rogov
