Saint-Véran “En Faux” Vieilles Vignes 2006 – Vinifié, élevé et mis en bouteille par Rijckaert, négociant – Viticulteur Jean-Paul Voluet – Alc. 13% - (€14,25), made from Chardonnay. We were looking for a wine to pair with both oysters and Norwegian cod. An impossible task, I think; this one was great with the cod in its shrimp sauce but was too soft and ingratiating for the oysters. On the nose the aromas showed fine white fruit and minerals with touches of herbs, flowers and cream. It was medium in body and flavour intensity, quite soft and caressing in mouth-feel and quite long with its acidity smoother than a year ago and its focus of fruit, minerals and aromas slightly less bright and the overall impression less dry with its Chardonnay signature dab of cream slightly more pronounced. Still delicious but I marginally preferred it in the brighter mode; 16/20+.
By contrast I preferred this bottle of VdP de l’Hérault 2005 (blanc) – Jean-Michel Alquier, Faugères – Alc.13%, made from Roussanne 60% and Marsanne 40%, to the last. I was more conscious of brightly fresh acidity, minerality, complexity of white fruit (pineapple and grapefruit) and Mediterranean herbs enhancing the nicely creamy rich texture and good length; 17/20. The pairing, red tuna prepared with honey and pine nuts, may have enhanced the impression of freshness. (NB - legally not Faugères but made there
)Coteaux du Languedoc Pic-Saint-Loup “L’Olivette” 2006 – Clos Marie – Alc. 13.5% - (€12), made from Syrah and Grenache with a touch of Cinsault and Mourvèdre, was medium/full bodied with lovely dark fruit enhanced by minerals, Languedoc herbs and tobacco notes with a touch of elegance; 16/20+ QPR.
Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Lisagathe 1999 – Château du Hureau, Philippe et Georges Vatan – Alc.13% was medium/full bodied, quite suave and seamless with a velvety feel and fine rich red fruit with some tang and enough resolved tannic structure to support the finish. I missed the rougher earthy, leathery and mineral touches found in some other producers but this was very good and many may prefer it; 16/20.
Rully 1er cru Les Cloux 2002 – Paul Jacqueson – Alc.13% was an exemplary Chalonnais red showing medium body, attractive aromas of cherry with kirsch dabs and bright focus on the palate with lively acidity, good fruit, flesh, mineral touches and fair length; 16/20+.
Château Talbot 4ème grand cru Saint-Julien 1989 – Alc. 12.5%, two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, was a lovely mature yet fresh and youthful seeming claret. Hints of Cordier funk blew off quickly to give way to aromas of fresh red fruit (red and black currants) with mineral touches (graphite hints) and that typically Bordeaux herbaceous lift. Body was medium weight, palate shape was linear with a gentle sweetness in the ripe 89 fruit offset by lively mouth-watering acidity and resolved tannic structure. The wine was delightfully moreish and reminded me why I used to love claret; I had to restrain myself from fetching another bottle; 17/20+.
. They've been tripped up by "eau de vie" which means "brandy". It should read "A large part of the local wine is distilled to make brandy".