Otto praised this offering a couple of years ago. I came back to him, after picking up six bottles of it following his recommendation, in disagreement, thinking it – well, I don’t remember, exactly – but not very good. I am going to give Otto the benefit of any doubt that he could see a bit into the future, much better than Robert Parker, when, in 2006, he said: “This is a competent but uninspiring effort. Aromas of figs, plums, and black cherries emerge from this straightforward, soft, medium-bodied, simple, one-dimensional offering. Drink it over the next decade”…85 points.
My former Boss, who created The Wine Bar, a fine American restaurant, in Saratoga Springs, New York, for his avocational relaxation, invited my wife, Lynn, and me to join him and his wife there last night for dinner. He said he would bring a couple of reds and a white from his private cellar. So as to not possibly eclipse whatever he brought, I took along one of my lowly 2003 Cantemerles. I figured it would be forward enough to drink well as a table wine prefacing whatever wine Dale brought.
A very attractive bottle of 2006 Hanzell Chardonnay was poured all around while the reds were addressed. I approve all wines now by smelling the cork. I know that some say it is useless, but I have found it infallible over the last couple of years; and more elegant than picking up a glass before the rest of the party holds theirs. The beauty of the cork almost knocked me off my chair, in amazement, but also in trepidation, that I had done exactly what I didn’t want to have done, upstage the second red.
The restaurant’s wonderfully poised, newly acquired head waitress from Mount St. Helena, California; who, from her interest and knowledge, could have been designated a sommelier; poured all around again and the bouquet became palpable by all from the table top, before a glass was lifted to a lip. Wonderfully complex nose and long distinguished finish, with an accent of St-Julien-esque spice, and all its other school components nicely balanced and delicious in-between.
Then the host’s red, a 1996 Latour A Pomerol. It was just as good. Very powerful for a Pomerol, with sensuous elements that might be referred to as feminized Paulliac, like the first smell from your brand new Bentley upon opening its door. It’s not often that I open three wines and am absolutely delighted by all of them without a hint of bickering among them.
I went on a bit, but mostly I wanted to apologize to Otto.
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"I think you should apologize."
-- Jiminy Cricket
