WTN - Recent Tastes

• 2000 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (2/17/2010)
  Had this a couple of weeks ago, so few notes. The best bottle of this I have had - of course, it's the last one - with classic CDP cherry and secondary earthy leather notes. (A-)
  
• 2002 Château de Fesles Anjou La Chapelle - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou (2/16/2010)
  Hazy notes from last night. This was much better than the previous bottle. Still some oxidation notes on the nose and palate, but there's plenty of funky chenin fruit and minerality as well on the medium-full bodied palate. A very interesting, unique wine, kind of a blend of savennieres and vouray (but mainly the former). I love chenins like this - more intellectual than hedonistic, but not for everyone, as I have learned from others' reactions! (A-)
  
• 2002 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Ayler Kupp Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/15/2010)
  Nice young riesling here, with less sweetness than I would have expected. Lots of mineral notes, and a mix of mainly stone and citrus fruit of the medium palate. Solid Saar riesling. (B+)
  
• 2001 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/13/2010)
  This 2001 was singing last night. A mixture of minerals, stonefruit and a hint of tropical notes on the nose, with mango, pineapple and baked apple on the palate. An absolutley incredible balance on the palate, with a perfect blend of aged, off dry fruit, acidity and minerality. The bottle went WAY too fast! (A-)
• 2003 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (2/10/2010)
  Hazy notes from last night. Aftera 2 hour decant, it started out fairly acidic and tannic. As it warmed and opened up, it did become a bit more rich and smooth. A medium bodied wine of reasonable quality, but it never really impressed last night. (B+)
  
• 2006 Doña Paula Cabernet Franc Alluvia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato (2/7/2010)
  Bright purple in colour. A mix of black and red fruits on the nice nose, and a slight cedar note. More New than Old World on the palate, being fairly rich and full bodied. Lots of mainly red fruit again jump out, with a hint of oak as well, and considerable tannins. Dries out a bit at the end. Well made, but it's a little too modern for me: it tastes as much like CS than CF. But it should be better in a couple of years - it's still quite young. On the second night, the texture of the wines improved (it became more silky), and I enjoyed it more overall. If you have this, wait 2-3 years. (B+)
  

[Jenise]

This made me laugh: "A medium bodied wine of reasonable quality, but it never really impressed last night. (B+)" Somehow above average plus was not what I expected with that lead-in. Are you related to Dale Williams?

Nice notes, and re the Fesles: I've had two Fesles chenins, and both tasted oxidized to me--I presumed they were problem bottles. But you mentioned it too, and obviously you loved the wine: is that just typical Fesles character?

Well, the Crognolo was certainly a well made wine with no flaws other than the fact that it didn't impress me as much as I had hoped! It was nice enough, but not nice enough, if you know what I mean. Plus, it was a lazy, lousy note, I admit it!

For the Fesles, I think it's a case of dry chenin blanc = a high opportunity for oxidation than a producer issue. I don't mind a little oxidation in my chenins, but it's very much a personal preference (like the amount of brett or VA one can stand). The Fesles had enough fruit, and enough of that wonderfully quirky mix of minerals, oxidation and funky, wooly fruit that chenins provides, that it was an outstanding wine for me (and my partner agreed, FWIW). And to make the matter more annoying, the oxidative characteristics can often (not always) disappear with time in dry Loire chenins. Even leaving a bottle open a day or two can sometimes do the trick as well. It is an annoying feature of this type of wine. Not as bad as the white burgundy oxidation woes, but perhaps related in some winemaking techniques way.

For the Fesles, I think it's a case of dry chenin blanc = a high opportunity for oxidation than a producer issue. I don't mind a little oxidation in my chenins, but it's very much a personal preference (like the amount of brett or VA one can stand). The Fesles had enough fruit, and enough of that wonderfully quirky mix of minerals, oxidation and funky, wooly fruit that chenins provides, that it was an outstanding wine for me (and my partner agreed, FWIW). And to make the matter more annoying, the oxidative characteristics can often (not always) disappear with time in dry Loire chenins. Even leaving a bottle open a day or two can sometimes do the trick as well. It is an annoying feature of this type of wine. Not as bad as the white burgundy oxidation woes, but perhaps related in some winemaking techniques way.

And some winemakers in the Loire make purposefully oxidative wine (Angeli, Joly, etc.) so a Chenin with some oxidation can have any number of sources.

Mark Lipton