by Daniel Rogov » Mon Feb 15, 2010 5:28 pm
At the risk of being wordy, an article I wrote not that long ago...
Best
Rogov
For Issue 10
The Ghost of Michelangelo
Few cities are more beautiful than Florence and Florence is never
more beautiful than at dawn. On my last visit, for example, I
awakened early to see the sun rising above the cathedral. The
first weak rays went down the small side streets, reflecting from
the windows of the buildings there, turning the entire city a
quiet golden red. A few meters away, running parallel to the
little street on which my hotel was situated, the Arno river
skirted the piers of the ancient Ponte Vecchio and on its
yellow-brown waters, in which clouds were mirrored upside down, a
few rowboats floated aimlessly.
Being aimless in Florence is a good thing, so my first act of
the day was to head to Angelica's, my very favorite cafe in the
city. Tucked away in the Piazza Mentana this is probably the
least pretentious cafe in the city and two types of early morning
people are found here at this early hour. There are the working
class people of the neighborhood who snatch their coffee before
rushing off to work. And there are the prostitutes, some of whom
are really quite beautiful, who, after a full night's work want a
bit of physical sustenance to warm them until they make it home
and to sleep.
Some of the earlier risers and late-nighters huddled around the
counter to swallow their coffee, often mixed with cheap rum or
grappa, and to munch fresh croissants. And while presiding over
the espresso machine, Signora Angelica supervised the decorum of
the place. Angelica, every inch a businesswoman, knows that the
friendly banter that goes on between the men and the hookers is
good for business, but makes a point of keeping what goes on
within strict limits. There is practically nothing the men can or
do not say to the women, but none of them is ever permitted by
Angelica to lay a hand on any of them. The proprietress is not
moved by moral considerations: she simply wants to avoid the
inconvenience of having the police visit her too often if any
deals are actually closed on her premises.
Over the many years I had been visiting here, Angelica had
accepted me as pretty much of a regular, gave me a friendly nod
and a few moments later cappuccino, sweet rolls and butter
appeared on the small corner table that I always occupied. No one
makes cappuccino as well as the Florentines.
After coffee, I took a car and drove to Fiesole, just a few
kilometers from Florene, there to attend a wine tasting and lunch
that was being hosted at the home of Contesse Anna de Medici. The
garden at the Contessa's villa, in which the tasting and lunch
were to take place is a marvelous place, a world that could exist
nowhere but in Tuscany. Surrounded by vineyards, fields of gorse
and heather and overlooking the lush Arno valley, the garden
itself is made up of shaped box-elders and a lawn so perfect that
its final trimming is done by hand. Here too, only a few meters
from the villa, are the remains of the small house where Niccolo
Machiavelli is said to have retreated in 1499 to write "The
Prince", his masterpiece of politics and manipulation.
Before we started our wine tasting we went onto the subject that
every Florentine was discussing that day - the visit of
Michelangelo's ghost on the previous night. Before he died in
1564, the great artist had been working on a pieta that he
intended for use at his own tomb. The pieta, never completed, is
on permanent display at the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, and every
Florentine knows that from time to time the unhappy spirit of
Michelangelo returns to add a few touches to his unfinished work.
All of which could be dismissed as nothing more than a good
story except that museum curators have actually found that over
time the work actually seems to be "developing" as if some ghostly
hand were slowly bringing it to completion. Experts concur that
the new touches bear distinct traces of Michelangelo's unique
style. These visitations have been going on for over 250 years,
but every event is taken as a valid cause for many hours of
discussion.
From here, it was to the tasting of twenty-five different wines
that we made our way. Among the beautiful rolling hills, covered
as much with olive trees as with grape vines, wine has been made
here for at least 1,800 years. Now, as during earlier days, the
wines of Tuscany vary in quality from the absolutely banal to the
sublime. There are table wines that are fit only for alcoholics,
mid-range wines that can be marvellous for all occasions and
wines so good that they can make you cry for joy.
Dining in Tuscany
Apart from its natural beauty, Tuscany has a flourishing
agricultural economy which gives us some of the world's best olive
oil, tender steaks and exquisitely fresh vegetables. Whether in
Florence, Sienna or the villages of Tuscany, this abundance is
reflected on tables in homes and restaurants, for the region has
managed to add special refinement and sublety to the most ordinary
of dishes.
Everywhere, the food of the region has a rustic feeling to it.
Delicious soups of vegetables, beans and meat are served in
terra-cotta pots; nearly everything can be cooked on an open grill
or in a log-fired bread oven. Among the justifiably best loved
dishes of the are are bistecca alla Fiorentina, a thick steak from F]Ë
the local Chianina cattle, that is charcoal grilled and flavored
with olive oil, salt and pepper; fagioli al fiasco, beans that are QaË
simmered in empty wine bottles with water, olive oil and garlic;
trippa alla Fiorentina, simmered tripe tht is cut into strips and 0EË
cooked in a casserole dish with tomato sauce and sprinkled over
with grated Parmesan cheese. Closer to the coast, one finds
seafood specialties - try especially the nicely seasoned soup-stew
known as cacciucco. Also worth trying are the dishes made with 9AË
baby eels. Also keep in mind that any dish that is served "alla loË
Fiorentina" will contain spinach. 09Ë
Dining Out in Tuscany
Many people say that it is impossible to dine badly or receive
a badly made cup of coffee in Tuscany. This is a bit of an exag-
geration, for whether in Florence, Sienna or many of the villages
in the area there are many tourist-oriented restaurants where
the food is mediocre, the coffee is weak and the prices are out-
rageous. The truth is, though, that with a minimum of effort, one
can find really great restaurants, many of which offer meals at
surpisingly reasonable prices. Although the following list is far
from complete, it does include restaurants that I consider among
my personal favorites.
Florence
Enoteca Pinchiorri, Via Ghibellina 87. The only restaurant in 0TË
the city with two Michelin stars. Very expensive but definitely
worth the investment. My suggestion, try the degustation menu.
Reservations required - Phone 24-27-77.
Il Cibreo, via dei Macci 118 (near the two main food markets 0KË
Mercato S. Ambrogio, northeast of Santa Croce). Small,intimate,
bohemian, bistro...great antipasti, excellent soups, fantastic
desserts. Expensive, but worth the money. Reservations required
Telepnone 234-11-00.
Le Quattro Stagioni, Via Maggio 61R (near the piazza dei Pitti). 0RË^mË
Try the gnocchi, the unique Catherine de Medici salad, the veal
dishes. Expensive but worth it. Reservations required. Telephone
21-89-06.
Cammillo, Borgo San Jacopo 57R. A noisy but excelent trattoria 0MË
(in the Oltrarno part of te city). Any of the dishes are wort
trying. One of my favorite places. Reasonably priced.
Reservations suggested at night Telephone 21-24-27.
L'Antico Fattore - via Lambertesca 1 (around the corner from 0SË
the Uffizi museum). Typical tuscan food, reasonably priced.
Ultimately simple atmosphere but worth trying for the quality of
the food.
Ristorante Corsini, Lungarno Corsini. Elegant Tuscan food 0SË
in a very pleasant setting (an elegant, palatial interior).
especialy for a very pleasant lunch. Telepnone 21-77-06.
Tuscany in General
In Volterra: The Etruria, opposite the Palazzo dei Priori. BHËXiË
Nothing fancy but really nice and good food at reasonable prices
Sit outside if possible and have a fun view of the town's main
square.
At La Foce (10 minutes drive from Chianciano): L'Oasi, via `lË
della Vittoria 90. Typically Tuscan restaurant, especially good 0@Ë
if you enjoy grilled steaks, grilled fish and robust local
wines.
In Montemerano (7 km south of Saturnia): Laudomia a rustic, ZaË
inexpensive trattoria (with rooms if you're in the mood).
Delightful food. Be sure to try the acqua cotta, the Tuscany
vegetable soup served with an egg. Also consider buying some
of the jams for sale here to take home as gifts.
Caprese Michelangelo (26 km from Sansepolcro)...the village
in which Michelangelo was born, sitting on a hillside and
absolutely charming. Hotel and restaurant Fonte della Galletta is [nË
nothing fancy but a delightful escape from the real world and the
food, which relies heavily on the marvelous porcini mushrooms
picked locally is realy good. Best of all - hotel and restaurant
are cheap. Telephone (0575) 79-39-25
Monteriggioni: il Pozzo - family run restaurant, with good food. @GË
Try the panzerotti (crepes and cream), the meat dishes (make
sure they cook them on the grill), and the grilled shrimps if
they have them. Moderate prices.
In Montefollonico (fifteen minutes Northwest of Montepulciano)
the Restaurant al chiusa - one of the best restaurants in Tuscany. 4GË
Beautiful design, beautiful gardens, exquisite view. Definitely
to be tried. Moderately expensive.
In Montalcino: try the Caffe Fiaschetteria Italiana, a belle HcË
eqopue wine bar and coffee house where you can taste and compare
different Brunello de Montalcino wines by the glass. MUST TRY!
In the town of Radda (south of Greve). Relais Vignale. along XeË
the wine route, thus worth visiting. Lovely, good country style
Tuscan food at moderate prices. Telephone (0577) 73-80-94.
In Siena: Alas, not much good to eat here, but the desserts
are marvellous. Try Nannini on via Banchi de Sopra for fantastic EKËPbË
cakes, cookies and coffee.
In Prato: (20 km Northwest of FLorence). Il Pirana, an excellent ZbË
fish and seafood restaurant. Try especially the spaghetti with
lobster. Via Valentini 110. :JË
In Pisa: For cheap, unpretentious but realy fine dining try
the Trattoria della Mescata, a tiny little place Behind the 4JË
Hotel Victoria in the market square piazza delle Vettovaglie. TkË
In Pisa: Al Ristoro dei Vecchi Macelli, 49 via Volturno. One of :hË
the region's best restaurants. Fish and seafood are the things
to try here. Expensive. Reservations required Tel (050) 204-24.
