Other than the Dönnhoff and Prieuré de Saint-Jean de Bébian, on which I have posted separately, last week's wines were not very inspiring.
In May last year, I wrote that Chinon 2005 – Domaine Bernard Baudry – Alc. 13% - is all that one can ask for in a young Chinon; fresh red fruit and minerals with just a hint of leather and bell pepper, lively acidity, medium body, some “gras”, ripe tannic support for the finish and good length; 16.5/20++.. I would add minerals to this description but the leather hint has now veered to barnyard, which worries me for further development; 16/20.
Bandol 1997 Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine – Domaine Tempier – Alc. 13% - also showed barnyard flavours which were more marked than on the previous. These did not spoil but did IMO slightly detract from the harmony of the usual mature Bandol virtues of medium/full body, good depth, mature rose, dark fruit, tar aromas and resolved tannic structure; 15.5/20++.
(I preferred the basic Cuvée Spéciale 97 which was perhaps less deep but was more harmonious with discreet leather instead of barnyard.)
Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Haut Coustias 2003 – Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin – Alc. 13.5%, made from Mourvèdre roughly 60% and Grenache 40%, punches well above its weight showing real class in most vintages. The heat of 2003 seems to have sweetened the fruit and thickened the wine’s texture adding a streak of liquorice and coarsening the overall effect; 15.5/20.
Rioja Ibéricos Crianza 2006 – Soto de Torres- Alc.14% - (<€9). After reading some enthusiastic reviews, I was somewhat disappointed. At first the medium full body and mass of bright red and dark fruit laced with herbs were impressive but I was increasingly bothered by a strong streak of vanilla and by dry caramel notes on the finish. Maybe these will integrate in time but, in spite of the attractive price, I don’t feel tempted to find out; 14/20.