WTN: Brilliant Dönnhoff Grosses Gewächs

Dönnhoff Dellchen Riesling 2006 Trocken Grosses Gewächs (the back label gives the official name Norheimer Dellchen 2006 Riesling Trocken Qualitätswein 13%). As this wine was brilliant, I spare you all a rant about new style unofficial German labelling. The aromas were wonderfully aromatic with notes of white fruit, flowers, spice and minerals. The body was quite full, there was a touch of sweetness and quite a bit of creamy flesh which were balanced by enough juicy mouth-watering acidity, backbone and fine length. I thought that the sea bass in a shrimp sauce was rich enough to match the wine but Germaine disagreed finding too much sweetness for the purpose. Certainly I guess that this wine was close to the 9g sugar ceiling for “trocken” and 2006 was not famous for acidity but I found it beautifully balanced; 17.5/20.

[David M. Bueker]

Great note Tim. Somehow I missed the 2006 Grosses Gewachs (should I rant about the labeling for you?), but scored in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Dellchen is a site that seems to have earthier flavors than some others which to my mind makes it wonderful for the GG style.

As for '06, it is a relatively high acid vintage, especially compared to its nearest neighbors '05 and '07.