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WTN: Mediocre Malbecs

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Mediocre Malbecs

by Jay Labrador » Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:35 am

Notes from last week's Al Fresco Malbec tasting at Cafe Ysabel.

Before getting down to business we started with a couple of whites.

Rene Barbier Brut Reserva NV - Light and lemony with rather large bubbles. Weak finish. Refreshing, if simple. A summery drink which was a good way to start as the weather here is already turning warm.

Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007 - There's a rather silky texture to this wine. Crisp fruit and a touch of gasoline. Long finish. Good, solid wine.

On to the reds. All tasted blind with each participant voting for his top 3 wines.

Wine A - Rhone-like aromas. Dried herbs and hot stones and soil. Hot on the nose. Some mint and leather. Very dry finish. The nose got better as it aired. Legends Reserve Malbec 2006 from Canada. Group #4.

Wine B - Sweet nose. Mint. Syrupy sweet. Tannic but falls apart on the finish. Ben Marco Malbec 2003. Despite my less than glowing review, I voted it my #2. Group #2.

Wine C - Deep, fragrant nose. Bacon and wood. Complex, full, smooth and silky. Wet rag and rusty iron. Unfortunately, too smooth. No structure (acid or tannin) holds this wine together. Viento Sur Malbec 2007. My #3. Group #6 (last). I was the only one who voted for this wine.

Wine D - Fruit jam, potpourri, oven-fresh bread with sweet butter. Some caramel. Despite the good nose, rather hollow. St. Felicien Malbec 2007. Group #1.

Wine E - Soil, rocks and smoke. Juicy. Soft tannins. The acidity firms this up. Rather ordinary. Alamos Malbec 2007. Group #5.

Wine F - Good fruit. A little coffee, spicy. Good balance. Fragrant wood. Rather good. By far, the best of the lot. Catena Malbec 2006. My #1. Group #3.

Sadly, the great majority of these wines were rather ordinary and uninspiring. Good thing we had two more reds and some ports as well.

Jacques Boyd 2006 - The second wine of Boyd Cantenac. I think this was probably over-decanted as it was poured into the decanter before 7 PM and we only got to it close to 10 PM. Very soft and watery. Very dry but a good nose.

Vine Cliff Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 - From Napa. Sweet nose. Oaky but not overly so. Dry finish. Soft. Good but nothing special.

Finally we got to the ports; both from half-bottles.

Woodstock Vintage Port 1994 - From Australia. Mostly Syrah and Grenche I believe. Pale and showing its age. Spicy, still rich. Very dry finish. Except for the color, I wouldn't have guessed it was over 15 years old. Very good.

Quinta do Crasto 1997 - Still very dark Spicy. Lots of fruit, plum. Lovely, already soft and approachable. Probably at peak now. Very easy to drink. Very good.
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Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
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Daniel Rogov

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Re: WTN: Mediocre Malbecs

by Daniel Rogov » Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:37 am

Malbec too often makes me think of the old nursery rhyme:

And when they are good, they are very, very good
And when they are bad, they are absolutely horrid


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