HI everyone, recently I was privileged to attend a German winemakers dinner in Brisbane, where a number of German winemakers were present. I posted this on one of the smaller Australian Boards, and I've reproduced it here knowing the German fans who contribute to WLDG. All are from importer Patrick Walsh's Cellarhand stable. I can only think of one other importer into Australia (Neville Yates who runs Eurocentric) who has a portfolio of this quality.
One further note in the international context - Australia seems to get these wines 6 to 12months nehind everyone else, so some if these vintages are still current here.
The dinner was downstairs at the newly renovated Urbane in Brisbane, which has had some serious money spent on it. The format of the night wasn't very clear. We all arrived to a glass of the 2007 Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelrich Kabinett, which is tasty limes and slate. I don't always like Himmelrich wines, but some (like Willi Schaefer and JJ Prum) do an outstanding job with it. This was a good standing up aperitif.
We sat down and an older gent with a German accent sat down next to me and introduced himself. "Hello my name is Helmut, please forgive my poor English".
OMG, I'm sitting next to Helmut Donnhoff. The afterglow from this is going to last until 2011.
The other winemakers present weren't too shabby either:
Ernst Loosen
Johannes Hasselbach (Gunderloch)
Cornelia Heymann Lowenstein
Gunther Wittman
The dinner then proceed with the first wine on its own, and then wines with each course in twos or threes. These notes don't really do the wines justice as they are impressions from memory, no one I could see was taking notes on the night:
2007 Donnhoff Oberhauser Liestenberg Kabinett: I love this wine, always have. its brighter and more fruit driven than the Loosen that preceded it. Helmut explained that he only ever makes this Kabinett or a dry wine from Leistenberg called Tonschiefer.
Next course was two dry wines:
2007 Wittman Estate Riesling: reduced and a little sulphury for me. Keep em coming.
2007 Gunderloch Dry Riesling: A bit of burnt rubber here. Pass
Then into the more serious stuff, and this flight was really interesting. GG Stands for Großes Gewachs, effectively the German equivalent of Grand Cru. These are all dry wines:
2008 Heymann Lowenstein Kirchberg Single Vineyard: Rich, honeyed, almost like it is made in an oxidative style. I gather fro the conversation around me that Kirchberg isn't a GG vineyard, hence the "Single Vineyard" designation. For some reason i thought it was.
2007 Heymann Lowenstein Uhlen Roth Lay GG: Floral, bath salts and yellow fruits. This has a weight and richness that I've never really found in Australian riesling. Very appealing wine, I'd be happy to own.
2007 Donnhoff Hermansholle GG: This was my WOTN, and I'd be lying to say that wasn't influenced by the reserved, considered riesling rock star sitting beside me. We were talking about German wine law at this point, what made a GG and why the Germans are pushing for it. Very reserved at first, with a nose that takes some teasing out. Like all of the other GGs could probably have done with a decant. This is minerally, herbal, and is built around a long, intense dose of grapefruit.
Next course of GG's:
At this point the winemakers rotated,and we were joined by Johannes Hasselbach, and the conversation turned to technical things. Johannes did his last vintage at the Martinborough Vineyard in NZ. WE compared technical notes and talked about old world vs new world. He was interested in some of the winemaking techniques we used in our own wines, the 2009 Auburn Rieslings that will be available shortly. The wines we tried:
2008 Wittman Kirchspiel GG: The main thing I noticed about these 08 Wittmans was the imprint of the vintage compared to the 07s in the previous flight. These are finer, lower alcohol, and bear the stamp of the more classical 2008 year.
2008 Wittman Morstein GG: My memory fails me now, but I recall the two Wittmans being very similar in their nature.
2007 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg GG: I did like the Gunderloch. Does this always happen when the winemaker sits next to you? Lighter and again more white fruit and flowers, despite being fr the riper 2007 vintage.
Then with a pre-dessert, a flight of Goldkapsels. I am a goldkapseliste.
2008 Heymann Lowenstein Uhlen Roth Lay Auslese Goldkapsel: What a wine. Initially this showed a plasticene lke pong, which blew off after a while. Ripe, golden rich, honey and peaches. Intense and long, and super enjoyable. Right in the pocket for me as a sweet wine. Buy. Runner up for WOTN.
2008 Dr Loosen Erdener Pralat Auslese Goldkapsel: More elegant and floral again. I buy this wine every year. This version is fascinating in that is shows its breeding and also shows the year. its lightly sweet, lifted, acacia, floral and whit peach. Buy again.
2006 Dr Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Auslese Goldkapsel: You know..I don't like Wurzgarten wines. I've had these from 1998 to 2006, from spatlese to Goldkapsel, and every time I find them formulaic and boring. This was no different. Johannes Hasselbach asked if the wine was OK. Its possible it was very lightly corked.
Ernie Loosen took the stage at this point and told the story of the Bishop of Erden (The Erdener Pralat). There was also a group discussion of the Goldkapsel classification, which has no official status in German wine law, and the thinking that the word "Feinste" (Finest) should be allowed again to describe special Auslese parcels. The Gold Capsules were apparently the invention of JJ Prum, to get around not being able to use Feinste anymore.
Then with dessert:
2006 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Beerenauslese: I've had this wine once before. For the second time this showed as very backward and reserved, with the beerenauslese sweetness and botrytis parried by searing acids. Vey elegant for a 2006. Needs a long sleep, this could last 50 years.
2006 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Beerenauslese: More open and accessible now as many of the 06's are. Honey and nectar. Lovely.
I'll come back and edit as more recollections come to mind.
cheers
Andrew
