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WTN: Mixed bag of Beaujolais and Bourgogne

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Salil

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WTN: Mixed bag of Beaujolais and Bourgogne

by Salil » Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:32 am

Our monthly tasting group met at Spencer's place for a blind lineup from his cellar and some really fantastic cheeses from Artisanal (which I really must try out one of these days when I am in New York). After the starting 'welcome' wine, wines were poured in twos and most of us didn't come close to getting the theme here - a mix of Beaujolais and Bourgognes (the starting wine was appropriately a Passetoutgrains - blend of Gamay and Pinot) - when the wines were finally unveiled after all 10 had been poured. Really interesting and eye-opening tasting with some fantastic values that I will have to keep a look out for. Thanks for hosting this Spencer!

Starter wine:
2005 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains
Tart cherry and raspberry flavours on a light, slightly austere frame with bright acids and faint earthy notes underneath. Tasty, though not particularly interesting.

Flight 1:
2005 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Really earthy, gravelly nose showing barely any fruit. On the palate it shows red fruits and more savoury earthy flavours, though the structure dominates and it doesn't offer much pleasure right now. (That said, a few others at the table liked this much more than I did.)
2005 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Bourgogne
Mmm, really great aromatics with floral elements, red berries, touches of earth and herbs combined into a fantastic scent. Bright red fruited flavours in the mouth over gentle herbal and earthy elements and bright acids keeping it very fresh and lively, delicious.

Flight 2:
2005 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Bourgogne
Seriously good stuff with a wonderful aromatic profile of leather, plums, red fruits and herbs leading into a palate combining bright fruit with faintly meaty and earthy flavours over a spine of grainy tannins and bright acids. Delicious wine (and one of my favourites of the evening), I need to find some for myself.
2005 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Poncié
Really savoury aromatics, full of gravelly earth and faint stemmy notes with some black cherry flavours emerging with time. Very forward and elegant in the mouth with bright black cherry and raspberry fruit lifted by good acidity and finishing long.

Flight 3:
2005 Domaine Humbert Frères Bourgogne
Very forward and approachable with layers of bright red fruits, savoury earthy notes and herbal/stemmy touches in an elegant package that has a really glossy, polished texture to it. There's a touch of alcohol that sticks out on the back end, but otherwise it's very enjoyable.
2005 George Descombes Brouilly Vieilles Vignes
Starts out with an incredible scent combining leather, forestal earthy notes and bright red fruited flavours, and the aromas keep expanding and opening out with some air, picking up spicy and floral nuances. There's a sense of sappy richness to the fruit flavours on the palate, and a glossy, silken texture that makes this very easy to drink. Fantastic. (My wine of the night, though yikes - what's with the wax capsule and logo?)

Flight 4:
2005 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py
Fantastic aromatics with one of the most vivid, intense expressions of cherries I've ever smelled in any wine. It's not overly complex, but just packed full of really polished, sappy red fruited flavours that are kept really fresh and lively by bright acids. Delicious wine.
2005 Domaine Arlaud Bourgogne Roncevie
Really unpleasant aromatics with some stinky bretty notes, sulfur and touches of red fruit. Tastes fine after that - but it's a challenge just getting past the aromatics.

Flight 5:
2005 Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais Le Perréon
Very tasty; packed with ripe cherries, raspberries and strawberries over touches of earth and toasty notes, rich and faintly creamy on the back end with a gentle, soft texture.
2005 Domaine Michel Gros Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Pretty aromatics with plums and black cherry fruit accented by floral elements, but there's also a little perceptible alcohol. Very rich and concentrated in the mouth with lots of ripe red and dark fruit, but it doesn't have much in terms of complexity and finishes a little short.
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of Beaujolais and Bourgogne

by Oswaldo Costa » Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:13 am

Great lineup! Love Foillard and Descombes, glad to hear they showed well.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of Beaujolais and Bourgogne

by David M. Bueker » Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:20 am

Salil has a given a good view of hte wines. I will say that the few I retatsed at the end benefitted from the extra air, as well as being a bit warmer (the wines were downright cold at the start & warming into the low 60s was hepful).



The Lafarge was overly austere IMO. The Coudert Tardive is just plain angry right now. I keep eyeing my own bottles but will now bury them more deeply in the cellar in the hope that they recover some equilibrium. The Amiot-Servelle did open up into a lovely wine, but when I first smelled it and the Coudert (paired as the 1st flight) I was about 80% certain that we were tasting 2004 Burgs due to an herbal edge that was not offensive, but notable. I thought the Meo-Camuzet had the nose of the night, the Vissoux was the most balanced for my taste, while the Humbert Freres was quite good but did not hold up as well over time as many of the other wines. I was equally impressed by the Descombes and the Foillard though I found the Descombes lacked the finishing strength of the Foillard, leaving a somewhat watery impression while the Foilalrd maintained its fruit throughout. The Arlaud was my second least favorite wine of the night after the Lafarge due to its overly stinky (dirty diapers in hell) nose. The Madone and Gros were much larger scaled wines than anything served prior to them, and had me re-thinking the theme. I kept going back and forth between Burgundy and Beaujolais in my thematic guesses, so I guess I was in the right ball park.
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag of Beaujolais and Bourgogne

by Bill Buitenhuys » Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:04 pm

What a fun tasting! Great idea of the pinot and gamay pairings. I'm still trying to lay off most of my '05 Beaujolais but it's good to hear that some are approachable.

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