Herzog (l.) and the Finnish importer Jarno Malmberg (r.)
We are told that with low yields, old vines and large differences between day and night temperatures, this is an area that can make wines of finesse rather than jam. And to prove this, a rare, unfinished white is poured. Riberach Hypothèse Blanc 2008 (barrel sample) is from the Carignan Gris -grape. Only 17ha exist and Riberach has one of them. It is aged in a big wooden cask (since this is the first year it was made, the wood is all new). The scent is really quite lovely, a bit like white Musar or LdH in its initially rich, oily but oxidative aromas. But this develops more into a floral style with lots of refreshing aromas, a little like elderflower (gladly not too much!). It is not at all as rich as one might expect from Southern whites; instead it is delightfully refreshing and high in acid. Racy. Some (oddly enough, not me this time
) will no doubt complain about the tiny amount of oak showing, but it was so little that I had no problem enjoying this wine (but will wait to see if future years with used wood will be even more pure and electric). Lovely. Of Southern whites, the only other with such raciness that I have experienced is Texier's Bourboulenc.A lovely dinner was provided by Restaurant Juuri (highly recommended if anyone ever comes to Helsinki) and with it we enjoyed the four reds.
Riberach Synthèse 2007 - label
The infamous wine - Garagiste in the US had apparently written hugely positive things about the 2006 and it turned out that everyone hated the wine so only negative comments are seen on the web. The 2007, however, I thought was awesome! About half Carignan, then quite a dollop of Syrah and about a tenth Grenache make up the blend this year - but the blend changes annually to suit the weather. In this hot year, more of the grapes that provide refreshing structure were used. With all the talk about 2007 having been far too hot to make refreshing wines, I was very happy that this was so beautifully balanced: dark fruit, sweet as expected from these grapes in the South, but nothing jammy or over-ripe. Crunchy, palate-cleansing, refreshing palate. I thought no one but Éric actively strives towards such a style in the South, but apparently I was wrong.
Riberach Antithèse 2006
A 100% Syrah, very reductive, not even an infant, not even a foetus, but seems to be more in the pharyngula stage of development. However, it seems to be a pure expression of Syrah; gently peppery, lovely meaty fruit, aromatically very N. Rhône despite its Southern sweetness. And this strange combination of being both so North and South at the same time is perhaps why I enjoyed it the least in this tasting (and it being so primary and reductive). Clean, refreshing, crunchy, properly structured palate. I think I still like this, but I must try it again in the future.
Riberach Thèse 2006 - label
Mostly Grenache, but with 7,5% of both Syrah and Carignan. The other reds see little wood (mostly big casks and used wood) but this is completely in tank. It is also the most alcoholic of the wines at 14,5% abv. And it is mostly a grape I usually don't really care for. Yet the fruit never seems over-ripe despite the high alcohol - and, indeed, the alcohol doesn't come through -, and it is such a bright, pure, clean and refreshing example of the grape that I do like it. Lovely tannins. Having mostly seen soft, plump wines from the South I was amazed at the focus and precision of this wine.
Riberach Hypothèse 2006
100% Carignan from 101yo vines, 13,5% abv. If this is the quality Carignan can achieve, I fully understand why Mr. Herzog feels that this is a misunderstood grape! Bright aromas, lovely focus, a slight touch of funk - a bright red-fruited aroma, but it still reminded me a bit of Mourvèdre. I would love to say that this has wonderful purity but only having tasted one other varietal Carignan before I really have no idea if it is (maybe with his philosophy of organic, natural yeast, no new oak influence, etc. we can say it is?). But who cares if it is or is not, this smelled lovely! The palate was as expected from the previous wines: lovely structure with both crunchy, palate-cleansing tannins and high acidity for the South, ripe but refreshing fruit. Lovely.
I have only had one of these wines, the Thèse, before this dinner so it is too early to say for sure, but I think this is finally another producer apart from Texier who makes wines in the South that I love. I look forward to trying them again.
