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I liked it before, but... Hook & Ladder Estate Zin '04

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John Treder

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I liked it before, but... Hook & Ladder Estate Zin '04

by John Treder » Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:16 pm

I bought a couple of bottles of this back in August '08 - Hook & Ladder is Cecil DeLoach's current venture.

I opened the first bottle in September '08 and noted, "Huge blackberry aroma. Massive fruit, dark and rich without prunes. Moderate tannin, just a bit of heat at the end. Notably different from the current DeLoach brand zins."
Wanting a casual Zin the other day, I opened the other bottle, and I was disappointed. "Not bad – a little fat, a little alcoholic. Age didn't improve this bottle."

The fruit disappeared without leaving much to talk about. Too bad. I liked the old DeLoach zins because of their straightforward fruit and generally robust, friendly character. I liked the first bottle of this for the same reason. Six years from vintage isn't "old", or I hope it isn't, yet the second bottle didn't carry on the character I had hoped for. It didn't "fall apart", it was the same a day later, but it had lost the fruit-driven flavors and left nothing to replace them.
Oh well, there are too many wines in the world to obsess about a small disappointment.

Details - 14.7% alcohol; I paid $19.80 at the winery.

John
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Keith M

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Re: I liked it before, but... Hook & Ladder Estate Zin '04

by Keith M » Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:32 pm

John,

Did you follow up with anyone at the winery about your experience? I've had some pretty interesting and illuminating conversations when I've followed up with the producer (especially a smaller place I've visited) after an experience such as yours.
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John Treder

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Re: I liked it before, but... Hook & Ladder Estate Zin '04

by John Treder » Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:30 am

I think in this case that it was my initial assessment of the wine that was at fault, rather than a bad bottle of one kind or the other. It certainly wasn't corked, though I'm not particularly sensitive to corkyness. I'll have to go back and hazard another few bucks before I can really justify to myself that I should complain.

Wines are weird critters, and all modern science doesn't seem to eliminate bottle variation, and though I'll note a big difference from what I expected, I don't think a single bottle is enough to assess blame.

John
John in the wine county

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