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WTN: Some GruVees...(long/boring)

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WTN: Some GruVees...(long/boring)

by TomHill » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:07 pm

We tasted tonight (1/6/09) some GrunerVeltliners:
1. PacherHof GrunerVeltliner DOC: AltoAdige/ValleIsarco (14%) AndreasHuber/Novacella/Varna 2008: Light gold
color; attractive spicy/floral rather earthy/minerally/stoney/chalky/terroir-driven slight sawdust
fairly attractive nose; quite tart/acid some spicy/floral/mineral/chalk/stoney somewhat rich flavor; long
tart spicy/floral rather stoney/minerally/chalky finish; lots of stoney/minerally AltoAdige character w/
only a slight GV character; interesting rendition of GV. $23.00
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2. Geil Gruner Silvaner Trocken Spatlese BechtheimerGeyserberg (Pradikatswein;
A.P.Nr. 4 257 078 11 09; EB; 13.0%) Weingut Oek.-Rat Johann Geil/Rheinhessen 2008
: Light gold color;
slight sauerkraut rather fragrant/floral/spicy light earthy nose; softer very spicy/floral/muscat-like
light earthy rather rather lush/rich flavor; quite long lush spicy/floral/muscat-like slight earthy finish;
no much GV character but a lovely German wine at a great price. $20.00
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3. Austria Pepper GrunerVeltliner (12%; www.the-dor.At) R&A Pfaff/Steiten 2008: Med.gold color; slight
sauerkraut/peppery fairly lush/ripe/floral slight earthy quite attractive/fragrant nose; rather soft/lush
peppery/floral/spicy slight earthy attractive flavor; med.long quite peppery light floral/spicy finish;
the pepper component really comes to the forefront as it warms; quite a lovely GV at a great price. $16.00
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4. Loimer GV (12.5%; Dry) Kamptal 2007: Light gold color; strong gout de petrol/spicy/citric/pineapply/valve
oil very perfumed/fragrant nose; soft/lush/ripe gout de petrol/valve oil/pineapply/floral/quince perfumed
flavor; very long classic gout de petrol/valve oil quite spicy/floral/pepper slight metallic/tangy finish;
lots of gout de petrol character w/ an underlying pepper; great GV for the price. $21.00
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5. Hiedler GrunerVeltliner Thal/Kamptal Trocken (13%) Langenlois 2003: Med.gold color; lovely floral/spicy
slight peppery/gout de petrol/perfumed talc very attractive/fragrant nose; soft/lush/fat spicy/floral
bit peppery/earthy somewhat tired bit oxidized flavor; med. floral/spicy slight washed-out/tired bit
earthy finish; not a lot of brightness and seems a bit tired & worn-out. Pleasant enough at $17.00
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6. Nigl Kremser GV (11.5%) Senftenberg/Kremstal 2007: Med.gold color; beautiful/fragrant spicy/floral/mead/
pineapple slight gout de petrol aromatic/complex nose; slight spritz very floral/spicy bit tangy/
grapefruity flavor; med.short spicy/floral light pineapple/honey/mead finish; lovely nose but doesn't
deliver a lot on the palate and finishes short. Fairly priced at $22.00
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7. WeingutBrundlmayer GV Kamptaler Terrassen (12.5%; Gutsabfullung) Langenlois 2007: Light gold color; lovely
gout de petrol slight cabbagy/sauerkraut spicy/peppery/floral quite aromatic nose; soft lush/rich light
gout de petrol/metallic/peppery spicy/floral slight earthy flavor; long earthy peppery/floral/spicy slight
gout de petrol finish; nedds a few yrs of age; a lovely GV at a very fair price. $25.00
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8. WeingutBrundlmayer Riedlamm GV Trocken (14%) Kamptal 2001: Med.dark color; beautiful/complex very spicy/
peppery/gout de petrol some honeyed/old German Auslese somewhat piney very perfumed/complex nose; rich/
mouthfilling some piney/gout de petrol very perfumed/complex/old German Auslese quite honeyed beautiful
flavor; very long honeyed/old German Auslese somewhat peppery/floral/spicy complex finish; probably the
best old GV I've had; should go another 5 yrs or longer; stunning old bones/GV. $35.00
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9. Hirsch Lamm GrunerVeltliner Kammern/Kamptal trocken (13.5%; www.Weingut-Hirsch.At) 2003: Med.gold color;
beautiful floral/spicy/GV bit peppery some gout de petrol/pungent perfumed/complex nose; soft/lush/rich/
ripe very spicy/GV/floral slight peppery near-dry flavor; very long/lingering very spicy/floral/GV slight
earthy/peppery rich/lush finish; should age for 10-15 yrs; terrific GV at a good price. $28.00
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10. DomaneWachau GV Terrassen Federspiel (12.5%; www.FWW.At) Durnstein/Wachau 2007: Med.light gold color;
very attractive floral/spicy/GV some earthy slight peppery/gout de petrol nose; pretty dry some earthy/
damp earth/Kansas root cellar attractive floral/spicy/GV slight peppery/gout de petrol somewhat tart
flavor; long spicy/floral/GV slight gout de petrol/peppery somewhat earthy finish; not as spicy & floral as
the Kamptal but very attractive at the price. $18.00
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11. Gritsch Axpoint GrunerVeltliner Federspiel (12%; www.WineMonger.com; EB) Mauritiushof/Wachau
2008
: Med.gold color; attractive very spicy/floral/GV slight peppery bit earthy/dusty/minerally/stoney some
complex nose; soft/lush quite peppery floral/spicy/GV slight minerally/earthy bit fat flavor; very long
light peppery very spicy/floral/GV slight earthy finish; bit lacking in structure but a very attractive
varietally correct GV at a great price. $18.00
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12. FranzHirtzberger Spitzer GV Federspiel (12.5%; RotesTor) Spitz/Donau/Wachau 2003: Med.light gold color;
rather gout de petrol very spicy/floral/GV slight honeyed/rich/lush complex nose; soft/fat bit dilute/
watery slight floral/GV flavor; med.short soft/fat very light floral/GV finish; very attractive nose but
doesn't deliver much on the palate. Not worth the $26.00
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13. RudiPichler GV Federspiel (12.5%) Wosendorf/Wachau 2006: Light gold color; strong floral/spicy/GV some
peppery light minerally quite aromatic/perfumed nose; tart bit spritz some spicy/floral/GV light peppery
bit dilute/simple flavor; med. light floral/spicy/GV slight minerally bit dilute finish; pleasant enough
GV but doesn't deliver on the palate. Not worth $27.00
___________________________________________________________________________
More made-up stuff from the BloodyPulpit:
1. I was inspired to put together a GV tasting when I stumbled across the first two wines. Never had heard
of GV planted in the AltoAdige and never see'd a German version. Both wines were quite good, but showed
little GV character...at least as I know it from Austrian versions. Despite the lack of varietal typicity,
I liked them quite a lot. So much for worshiping at the altar of typicity.
__________________________
2. This was the first time I had put together a bunch of GV's for my group. We have had them before in a sort
of hit or miss fashion, but never a whole tableau of them. They were, by & large, a huge hit. And very
reasonably priced for great white wines. The white pepper character in many of them made for a more
interesting wine than Riesling. Plus many also showed varying degrees of the gout de petrol character which
added to their complexity. Based on the '01 Brundlmayer, there's no reason that most of these GV's
shouldn't age well for 10 yrs or beyond. A variety I should be paying more attention to; high QPR pretty
much accross the board.
I would seem that GV would be a better white grape to pursue in Calif than Albarino, Verdehlo, or
Vermintino. If Calif can't make great Riesling (something I'm not at all convinced of), then maybe GV is
the answer to a great Germanic-style white. It will be interesting to see what MikeOfficer/Carlisle does
with this grape. And DonSchroeder/SeaSmoke as one ready to go to btl.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Some GruVees...(long/boring)

by David M. Bueker » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:11 pm

Tom - Gruner Silvaner is not Gruner Veltliner, it's just plain old Silvaner with a fancy/confusing name.

Now Strub makes actual Gruner Veltliner in the Rheinhessen & it's pretty darned good. I opened the 2005 recently & really liked it.
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Yup...

by TomHill » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:22 pm

I stand corrected, David. I'd just assumed it was a blend of GV & Sylvaner. No wonder I couldn't find any GV character.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Some GruVees...(long/boring)

by David M. Bueker » Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:06 pm

Just piling on a few thoughts:

- Great Gruner Veltliner needs to have some basis of acidity. I have my doubts if that base can be sustained in all but the absolute coolest parts of any established California wine region. Now some Gruner is planted in Oregon, and I am willing to see if the wines turn out well (once the vines age a bit).

- 2003 is a case in point for me, as I find the vintage almost completely uninteresting due to depressed levels of acidity and also higher alcohols. I have similar issues with some (though many fewer) 2006s, but in general the '06s have better acids that allow more varietal expression versus flaccid, fat fruit.

- I loved the peppery character in Gruner Veltliner, though I don't see that as inherently more interesting than the characters of Riesling.

- Gruner Veltliner does age remarkably well, as several 1995s (Brundlmayer, Nigl, Nikolaihof) pulled over the last year or so have proven for me (great now - bags of life left). I'm sitting on a stash of late '90s GV (and still a lone bottle of '95 Brundlmayer GV Alte Reben) that I dole out with the generosity of Scrooge.
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