2003 Chaputier, CdP Croix de B|ois:
Massive, alcoholic, torrefied, smoky, liquor-like wine-product; 15% abv (or more). No thanks.
2002 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vigne:
Mute, closed and if I were guessing, a little past prime. This has never shown really well - adequate. 13%.
2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Semper Excelsior – Schistes:
Softer and sweeter than a recent 2007 Granite de Clisson I wrote about but every bit as deep and viscous. Still plenty of acidity in the mid-palate and finish cleans and refreshes. 12.5%.
Day two: pineapple tones and less sweetness but otherwise, much the same.
1996 d’Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru
13%; it’s pure, very Volnay, fine grained and . . . hard. Maybe it needs ten years. But I have yet to have a 1996 Burgundy that doesn’t come across as hard and I am starting to wonder if I ever will.
2003 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore:
I’ve had this bottling in most vintages since 2000 and this is the least typical, 14%; smells more like South American malbec; it’s big in the mouth with strong flavors that don’t taste much like nebbiolo and intensity like a CA cab. Not a bad wine but certainly not representative of what this house can do in this vineyard. Lacks finesse.
1999 Bizot, Vosne-Romanee Les Réas:
12.5%; from first pour, this is beautifully detailed on the nose and palate; sauvage, elegant, integrated, complex and long. Very fine, classy and expressive in that way that the best Burgundy experiences can be – and terrific with chicken and lentil stew. At or very near, peak.
Best, Jim