WTN: Texier CdP VV 2006

Éric Texier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2006 - 14% abv

Texier's visit to Finland this winter was one of the vinous highlights of the year. I only had the opportunity to try a tiny drop of this '06 when he was here so I welcomed the chance to share a whole bottle. As CdP goes, this is wonderfully elegant. It is a blend of only Grenache and Mourvèdre. The Grenache is from 70 yo vines from La Crau, a north-facing vineyard which makes a combination of good structure and moderate alcohol possible in this hot area (the '05 was only 13,5% abv). The Mourvèdre is from the Southern part of the appellation and was also from old vines but I can't remember any more how old.

But technical stuff aside, the wine is quite fantastic. It is a bright and pure style with red and crisp fruit, wonderfully refreshing palate despite its richness. I am far too often simply overwhelmed by fruit when I drink Grenache but this had proper tannins and wonderful acidity when compared to other CdPs. Quite wonderful. It almost has the purity of Pinot.

With all the hype over the '07s it was interesting to recall what Mr. Texier said about recent vintages. He felt the '07 was quite a tricky vintage with too much ripeness. The '09, however, he seemed to be hugely excited about - I wonder if that will then be the best vintage, ever, anywhere, again?

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks Otto. I've had any number of Texier wines, but never the Chateauneuf.

I have a soft spot for the Texier wines, too. The 2000 CdP VV was terrific, with the acidity you mention and that wonderful hint of violets that can be so nice. Good stuff.

I really really liked the 2001 Texier CdP last year. It was just so easy to drink, which is one of the virtues - and problems (especially when the wines are 14-15%) - of delicious Chateauneuf.

It was just so easy to drink, which is one of the virtues - and problems (especially when the wines are 14-15%) - of delicious Chateauneuf.

Is the difference between, say, half a bottle of wine (I find the 0,75 a very convenient size to share over dinner) with 12,5% abv and 14% abv really so much that one needs to bother or worry about it? The (very slight) increase in intoxication is not what I am bothered about in high alcohol wines, but that they usually come in a package with too much ripeness, too little acidity and too smooth tannins.

Is the difference between, say, half a bottle of wine (I find the 0,75 a very convenient size to share over dinner) with 12,5% abv and 14% abv really so much that one needs to bother or worry about it?

I don't know how accurate these labels are (the ones listed as 14% may actually be 16% for all I know) but I have noticed a difference in my head between wines labelled 12% and 14%. But, I haven't done a systematic analysis and I agree that I don't usually look to the alcohol when choosing a wine.

I don't know how accurate these labels are (the ones listed as 14% may actually be 16% for all I know) but I have noticed a difference in my head between wines labelled 12% and 14%. But, I haven't done a systematic analysis and I agree that I don't usually look to the alcohol when choosing a wine.

In the EU, I think the law is that the label must state +/- 0,5 % abv from the actual abv. This wine wouldn't be allowed to be sold here if it weren't within those parameters (Finland is strict even if France isn't), so I am quite sure the label can be trusted. FWIW, when drinking half a bottle of 12,5% vs. 14% I haven't noticed a significant difference - at least nothing that couldn't be due to other factors (tiredness, stress, kms jogged). Maybe that's just because we hardy Finns know how to hold our liquor.

In the EU, I think the law is that the label must state +/- 0,5 % abv from the actual abv. This wine wouldn't be allowed to be sold here if it weren't within those parameters (Finland is strict even if France isn't)

Does that mean you add your own labels with the Finnish lab analyses? As you have probably seen, many old-style French producers have the same label and the same alcohol percentage for every year, and the only thing that changes is the vintage label around the neck of the bottle.

FWIW, when drinking half a bottle of 12,5% vs. 14% I haven't noticed a significant difference...

I agree that it is hard to notice with just a half a bottle. But I rarely only have a half a bottle

Does that mean you add your own labels with the Finnish lab analyses? As you have probably seen, many old-style French producers have the same label and the same alcohol percentage for every year, and the only thing that changes is the vintage label around the neck of the bottle.

The importer or the monopoly Alko (if available there) has to cover the label's abv with the correct abv if the label's is off. Silly rule, I admit.