2006 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Poulsard Jura 12.5%
Very pale strawberry color, almost rosé. Served chilled, didn't give much aroma, just some faint cherry and an iodinish hint of salinity. Before food, the acidity is intense and astringent, with light tannins and a bitter finish. What is most surprising is the extreme dryness. There is almost no sweetness, making it appear unfriendly. With food and warming, however, a My Fair Lady transformation takes place. The acidity recedes, the sweetness rises into balance, and a graceful strawberry fruitiness, companionable but not sycophantic, becomes a linear red carpet going up the aisle of your tongue.
As we had this with cheese, crackers and salad, we watched the first two episodes of Mondovino – The Series. The first, about Mondavi’s frustrated attempt to buy land in the Languedoc, wasn’t so interesting, but the second, about De Montille, was fascinating for the tension between Hubert, Alix and Étienne. At one point Hubert says he doesn’t like wines that are “wide,” and makes a gesture with his arms to show width. He prefers them to be straight and narrow, like a blade. This Poulsard, I think, helped me understand.