WTN: Raising the question of ageing dry Huet Vouvray.

Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu sec 1995 – Huet – Alc. 12% (with Demeter biodynamic certificate). In March 2002, I found this wine shut tight and wrote –
C: Slightly amber.
N: Subdued but some aromas of apple and pear coming out on swirl with hints of some richness in the background.
P: One dimensional and dominated by astringent acidity; aromas less pleasant than on nose reminiscent of unripe green apples. Towards the end of the meal there was some improvement from air and a slightly higher temperature showing hints of roundness and other aromas; quite good structure and length but the remanence was acidic. Too acid for Loire goat cheeses, which is unusual for a chenin based wine.

Will this ever come round into pleasant drinkability? Quite frankly if it didn''t come from Huet, who has produced so many wonderful wines, and from a supposedly good year, I would dismiss it immediately to go into the cooking of dishes that need some sharpness. I have four bottles left!

It has certainly opened up but is still not IMO a perfect dry Vouvray. Colour was now much deeper amber and the nose released aromas of wax, citrus fruit with quince touches, honey and minerals. The medium bodied palate struck me as somewhat disjointed with burnished notes developing the wax and honey elements from the nose clashing with still quite astringent acidity particularly on the finish; unfortunately I had no goat cheese to hand to see if that made the wine come together; so just 16/20 for this one.

I remember a 1996 sec (either Le Mont or Le Haut Lieu) as much more delicious but I can’t help asking whether it pays to age the dry styles as they are so lively and lovely when young and appear on this narrow evidence to be unreliable agers (95 supposedly a good year). I think that the demi-sec and moelleux styles are more reliable.

Mystery! I only found one bottle. Where have the other two gone? I can’t recall drinking them .

[David M. Bueker]

I am on the fence about long aging of dry Vouvray. Demi-sec for sure, but I have not had an older sec (10-15 years) that has really impressed me. I do have some 2002s laying down (Huet), so I will get to put them to the test, but not for a while.

Thanks for this note. Do you think this is part of the broader issue of that shutdown period for chenin when it seems down for the count but then rises again a few years later? I don't think anyone fully understands the issue and I guess it's just a matter of faith right now. But sorry that this wasn't too much fun. Although, since you can't find your other bottles you don't have to worry about drinking now vs. gambling on the hold.

Do you think this is part of the broader issue of that shutdown period for chenin when it seems down for the count but then rises again a few years later?

Probably, but bottle variation even though the cork and level were sound is a possible alternative; the colour was very deep. Some other regions, e.g. Hermitage and CndP whites, have the reputation of going into and out of closed, and even oxidative, phases several times; I don't have enough experience to confirm this and I haven't heard of Chenin doing the yoyo.

"Will this ever come round into pleasant drinkability?"

The answer is probably. I have considerable experience with very old Huet, largely because I discovered Huet fairly early in my wine collecting and wound up buying a case of the 47s Moelleux. I then sought out older examples at every opportunity. We bought a case of the 1969 Le Mont Sec probably 20 years ago because we got married in 1969 and there is not much else of great quality in 1969. The 1969 was so acid for so long, we still had nine bottles out of the case left in early 2009. BUT, when we tried it for our 40th anniversary, the wine had finally surrendered enough of its acidity to be seriously good. What is remarkable about the older secs and demi-secs is that they often do not yellow materially with age. The 1969 is still quite pale and I defy anyone to get the age right on a blind tasting. Needless to say, we have subsequently bought more Sec and a Moelleux 1er Trie in anticipation of a 50th anniversary party. The 1983 (a birth year) has similar problems and my best guess is that it needs another 10 years or so.

There are, however, some years that never go into a dumb period. The 1996 is an excellent example; the Demi-Secs and Secs were excellent on release and have stayed excellent throughout. We still have a few bottles of the Le Mont DS and I last had it about 4 months ago. 1995 was IMO a somewhat lesser year and one that was stronger in Moelleux than Sec. Again it is worth noting that the 1996s are nowhere near as amber as the 1995s. Indeed, if one thinks about the 1990s and 1989s, the 1989s are much less dark and are holding much, much better than the 1990s which are beginning to tire. The 1990s are getting very dark, almost like a very old Sauternes; in fact they are almost as dark as the 1947s. So maybe the years that darken more quickly are less likely to come back? Just a thought.

Bottom line: if a Huet is too acid, just put in back in the cellar and check in five years.

Regards,

Robert

Thanks for that very complete reply, Robert.

There are, however, some years that never go into a dumb period. The 1996 is an excellent example; the Demi-Secs and Secs were excellent on release and have stayed excellent throughout.

Any recent experience with 96 Foreau Moelleux?

All Huet admirers, see this update from the Wine Doctor....>

http://www.thewinedoctor.com/tastingsfo ... 2010.shtml

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks Bob. I am a big fan of the Huet Petillant, and eagerly waiting for the 2005.

I discovered Chenin Blanc a few years back, after having some '95 and '96 Huet Moelleux 1er Trie, and fell head-over heels.

Huet is now my 3rd most in my cellar. I tend to like some RS in my wines, and accordingly I've spent so much effort tracking down older Demi-secs and Moelleux(es), that I haven't had much opportunity to buy much in the way of older Sec. Joe Dougherty (SFJoe) and Brad Kane on Winedisorder would be others worth reaching-out to if you're interested in discussing Sec. John Gilman has an excellent report on the whole spectrum of Huet from a few years back as well.