Some very interesting wines went down the hatch last week.
Barolo Vigna La Rosa 1989 – Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda – Alc.14%. In the 70s and early 80s Barolo seemed to mean Fontanafredda along with Bersano, Marchesi di Barolo or Borgogno, but more recently these blips on the radar screen have dimmed ; unfairly if this one is anything to go by.
The wine’s character was more hedonistic than much Barolo with beautiful complex aromas from which rose petals, violets, minerals, some tar and anise could be detected. The palate wore its high alcohol lightly and was medium/full bodied, beautifully shaped, harmonious and long with resolved tannic support for the finish; it still showed some residual primary fruit (sweeter than usual) as well as forest floor and the above noted aromas; lovely 17.5/20.
Saumur-Champigny Les Terrages 1997 – René-Noël Legand – Alc.13.5% - (€6,50 ex-cellars for 2005), tank matured, showed this vigneron’s typical trade-marks of clay, wet leather and firm tannic structure alongside sweeter fruit and more fat than in cooler vintage; still quite vigorous and young seeming; 16/20+.
Sancerre Florès 2007 – Vincent Pinard – Alc.13% was a crisp refreshing Sancerre with decent density but rather less nerve and minerality than I remember; 15/20+.
Alsace Riesling Kaefferkopf 2000 – Meyer-Fonné – Alc. 13% was a lovely Riesling at its peak showing complex but airy aromas of minerals, white flowers with touches of fine spice and a fine quite full harmonious palate with a silky mouth-feel, good length and some RS, I think, giving slightly burnished honey notes but it was well balanced by acidity and remained refreshing and an excellent pairing for turbot with Hollandaise sauce; 16.5/20+.