1999 Wyncroft Lake Michigan Shore Riesling Avonlea Vineyard, 13% alc.: Opened for guests by Jim and Rae Lee Lester’s Wyncroft business partners John and Denise McKewan, this proved to be even more expressive than the last time we tasted it (where else, but at the McKewans’); perhaps that was because this time we were able to spend a little time sipping and savoring a few glasses. As Bennett Traub pointed out recently, it’s like a hypothetical cross between Riesling from Alsace and Austria, bone dry and exhibiting elements reminiscent of river stones and gout de petrol (John referred to this as diesel, and that works too) over earthy, steely under ripe green apple; medium full body, showing substantial weight for a Riesling from anywhere, especially Michigan, with ample cut, good length on the fin and a little tartrate sediment in the glass when it’s emptied. There may be other domestic (US) dry Rieslings as good or better than this, but they have yet to cross our path. This must have been the 8th or 9th time we’ve enjoyed one of these over the past few years, and this was the best one yet, giving strong indication that it was still on its way up. Not just “a good wine for Michigan,” but a seriously good wine, period.
- From More Wines with Friends
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
