This week, two mature bottles. I am slowly drinking my way through a case of each picked up at auction for a bargain price 6-7 years ago - so this is hardly the first tasting note for these wines I have written.
Of the two, I have always enjoyed the Gewurztraminer more. Every time I return to these wines I am a little surprised by how good it is, and how elegant and interesting it has turned with age.
Hugel Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 1986: This wine has a moderate, golden hue, and a nose of dried-out honey, roasted fruits, and a little oxidative, sponge cake and ginger character; overall it has an impressive style. The palate is full, dry but honeyed in texture, with piles of grip and substance. It turns a little more firm and slightly high-toned in the finish, where there are elements of crispy bacon and dried nuts and toffee added to the flavour profile. A very good style that has held up well. 17/20
Hugel Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 1991: A pale, lime-tinged lemon-gold hue. The nose is delightful, with mature and typical Gewurztraminer aromas, lychee and orange peel, pears, spices and pepper, and a little hint of crispy bacon too. Beautifully textured on entry, showing really nice flesh, with a sweet, toothsome texture, gentle and pervasive but also broad and very long. Lovely flavours follow those on the nose, with hints of bacon, sweet apples and pears. Pure, defined, with great typicity and very impressive harmonious expression. Lovely wine, which seems to be maturing very slowly and elegantly. 18+/20