2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:
One sip, and the world slows down – beautiful in ways I can’t even describe; clean, clear, crisp but not shrill in the least; beguiling depth and intensity but the overall impression is of whole-cloth – nothing missing or disjointed and an endless ebb and flow of nuance that carries me off. Inspiring!
2006 Quinta de Ventoselo, Cister da Ribeira Tinto:
A Douro blend of touriga franca, tinta roriz, touriga nacional and tinta barroca, 13% abv; slightly aldehydic nose with light red fruit scents; somewhat thin in the mouth but pleasant and balanced – a lightweight wine. $9; no re-buy.
2004 El Sequé, Alicante:
All or mostly monastrell (mourvedre), 14% alcohol; I found earlier vintages to be too oaky, extractive and expensive – this is not; very singular but pure on the nose – the aroma of blueberries being sautéed; also linear on the palate with a smooth texture and nice balance; nothing out of place here, albeit a bit simple. Even so, its simple in a good way with a an attractive and distinctive flavor and I like it and will buy it again, even at its $20 price.
(Unknown vintage) Galiciano, Mencia Noite:
No vintage on the label but I think one of the labels usually on this bottling is missing, 13%, $13; smells and tastes grapey – a flavor I enjoy although it is straight-forward and without nuance; balanced, bright and quaffable. Tastes more like négrette then mencia but regardless, it’s a fun drink.
1999 Maison Leroy, Volnay Santenots:
Balsamic and stewed fruit nose; acidic and attenuated in the mouth with no sense of place or variety – after several hours of airing it is marginally better with varietal character but no sense of place. Tolerable with food, otherwise, not. Poor wine although at least it has dropped most of its new oak smells and flavors.
(Aside: This is one of those wines that I think was adversely affected by its new oak treatment. Certainly, I could be wrong. But I have a theory that new oak can be very insidious in its effects – not just sawn lumber smells and flavors but rather the masking or altering of subtle elements in the nose and flavor profile as well as the texture. When released, this was massively oaked, to the point that I thought it obscured aromas and flavors. Now, this wine supports my notion; it is stripped and becoming a shell of what the wine had at release.)
2008 Bodega Hinojosa, 2 Copas:
20% malbec and 80% tempranillo from Argentina; one of very few wines from this country that make me think the place has promise; this is round but has cut, is quite structured yet full of fruit and is nuanced in ways I had no idea could come from this blend; not sweet, or overtly tannic or unbalanced in any way and such a pleasure to taste that I probably had too much. Someone else’s bring but my guess would be less than $20.
2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Estate Reserve:
Earthy but fruit driven – mostly dark fruit – good balance and sustain. This wine has never risen to the heights that some of the Murto Vnyd. pinots have but this is solid, of its place and went very well with a quinoa and roasted vegetable casserole.
2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine:
Lightweight, translucent, pure, vinous heaven; does not attempt to be grand cru and we are all the better for it. I could drink this wine once a week for the rest of my life and always feel that I could find a meal to go with it and that I would walk away from the table happy. Joyous wine.
2007 Masi, Valpolicella Bonacosta:
12% and about $15; pizza wine as it should be; grapey, straight-forward, good cut and nice balance. Nothing to age or write home about but ideal with simple fare when one would like to do something else with the rest of the day besides nap.
Best, Jim