Auxey Duresses 2005 – Domaine Taupenot-Merme –Alc.13% was a brightly focused, delicately fruity (some cherry) and mineral red Burgundy with medium body, good length and lively acidity; not very complex but with an elegance and class which stamps Burgundian superiority, even from a villages wine and obscure commune to boot, over most other wines; 16/20+.
Rosso Conero “Cúmaro” 2000 – Umani Ronchi – Alc. 13.5%, from the Montepulciano grape and a “prestige” bottling, may be a crowd-pleaser and point collector but was diminished, IMO, by its oak treatment. It was fine polished and pleasing oak but it removed varietal and regional personality from a full bodied, deep and richly fruited wine. Only towards the end of the meal some of the varietally typical spicy English fruit cake and mince pie peep through but there was still a lack of the frequently typical minerality and firm tannins; still quite enjoyable albeit internationally anonymous 15/20.
By contrast Savennières 2001 – Nicolas Joly – Alc. 13% (biodynamic culture) exuded personality and complexity even if showing some flaws which could disqualify it for many. Quite deep yellow in colour and quite dry, full bodied and rich, yet with a sweeter personality seeming to want to come out, it showed decent acidity and minerality, flavours and aromas of quince and wax but also botrytis (probably not noble) together with honey and iodine notes. Fascinating, though; 16/20+.
Arbois Chardonnay 2007 – Domaine André et Mireille Tissot – Alc. 13%, their basic cuvée, was delightfully crisp and mineral even though some of the flint aromas may have owed more to sulphur than to the terroir; there was a nice undertow of white fruit with some “gras”; 15.5/20++.
Campo de Borja Viña Collado 2006 – Bodegas Santo Cristo- Alc. 13.5% (<€5) is an exemplary QPR! Garnacha based red showing attractively fresh sweet fruit with good body and structure and enough acidity and grip for interest; 15/20++.
Vino da Tavola “Dopoteatro” 1997 – Podere Salicutti, Montalcino – Alc. 14%, from Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo and Sangiovese, has evolved well beyond the primary fruit stage and showed a strong Tuscan accent with full body, classical shape, OK length, deep, complex and quite dark textures together with decent acidity, minerals, tar, leathery tang, old books and warm tannic structure to support the finish; 16.5/20+.
(I had to write most of these notes twice. Having neglected to save, my fingers somehow brushed a key which deleted the whole of my text up to then
. A salutary lesson.)