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WTN: Mixed bag

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Salil

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WTN: Mixed bag

by Salil » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:12 pm

2008 Selbach Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett was a fantastic bargain - this is the negotiant bottling but up there with any of the Kabinetts from the Selbach-Oster estate with bright pear and lime fruit accented by minerals, really delicious and refreshing with its rapier-like acidity and precision.

2007 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett alongside was a little riper with the fruit leaning more towards red apple and less green citrus but again very light and refreshing, ideal Mosel wine.

2008 Leitz Dragonstone Riesling disappeared within minutes and had a couple of non-wine geek friends scribbling down the name so they could find some.

2007 Carta Vieja Carmenere on the other hand was fruit bomby boringness.

1996 Château Croizet-Bages was the complete opposite of the Carmenere and may have been put through a fruit-removing machine on its way to us. Seriously, barely a hint of fruit here but not necessarily a bad thing as this had really nice developed smoky, tobacco/leafy and herbal flavours over a base of earth and gravel. That said I would have liked a bit more richness as it did feel a bit astringent on the back end, but was still very enjoyable with food.

2007 Steve Bird Pinot Noir Big Barrel Old Schoolhouse Vineyard from Marlborough, NZ is remarkable as it's the only real value (around US$20) Pinot I've had from anywhere that consistently delivers at this quality. Have had a few bottles since release and this is again wonderful with red fruits, black cherry, rose petals and faintly smoky elements combined in a very elegant and drinkable package. And under screwcap as well! :)

2006 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese trocken
From a leaker. Quite developed aromatics with some honeyed and fusel notes on top of ripe pear and citrus flavours, and a little spice suggesting botrytis. Very rich in the mouth with a faint creaminess on the back end but really good acidity and length.
Another bottle (non-leaker this time) was more primary, all bright fruit, flowers and minerals with real energy and precision. Both very enjoyable, though the difference was quite surprising.

2004 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese
Um... wow. Basically a fireworks display in a glass; this is shockingly open and one of the best Brückes I've had.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jan 13, 2010 1:56 pm

Those 2 Himmelreich Kabinetts really sum up the differences between 2007 and 2008.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag

by Rahsaan » Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:55 pm

Salil wrote:2006 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese trocken
From a leaker. Quite developed aromatics with some honeyed and fusel notes on top of ripe pear and citrus flavours, and a little spice suggesting botrytis. Very rich in the mouth with a faint creaminess on the back end but really good acidity and length.

Another bottle (non-leaker this time) was more primary, all bright fruit, flowers and minerals with real energy and precision. Both very enjoyable, though the difference was quite surprising..


I go back and forth in my obsessions over wine storage and handling, but then when you taste the clarity of wines that have led peaceful and cold lives or when you taste two bottles side-by-side (or within a few days of each other) like this it really reinforces the importance of storage.

In a way, it makes wine that much more 'interesting' (in a maddening way) because each bottle really does have its own unique story to tell based on its trajectory.

Anyway, sounds like you have some fun wines. And I assume fun foods along with them?
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Michael Malinoski

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag

by Michael Malinoski » Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:27 pm

Salil, I really appreciate the review of the Steve Bird PN. I liked the SB's he made at Thornbury but have never tried one of his own label wines. I think I've seen a few at retail, but hadn't really thought to give them a whirl, but I think I shall.

Thanks,
Michael
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag

by Rahsaan » Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:31 pm

I've never had the Steve Bird either, but at $20 from Burgundy the Drouhin Chorey-Les-Beaune is pretty reliable and stylish. Of course one doesn't have to choose, one can always buy both!
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Michael K

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Re: WTN: Mixed bag

by Michael K » Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:23 am

Salil wrote:
[b]2004 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese

Um... wow. Basically a fireworks display in a glass; this is shockingly open and one of the best Brückes I've had.


Many thanks for the notes! I've got a few of these resting and am looking forward to them! might just pop one now that you've got me so tempted to!

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