Another year begins with a winter tasting of the San Francisco chapter of the German Wine Society. A very strong start for the event with the 1996 Hauth Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Middle Mosel)--outstanding. Pleasant with some dry funk, but plenty of tart backbone, faded sugar. Delicious and an outstanding example of what aged kabinett can be—I have rarely one so accommodating of my preferences. Not so familiar with the producer, so that was interesting as well. The 2004 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (Middle Mosel) was integrated, slatey, scrumptious and refreshing—an easy sell. The 2006 Josef Rosch Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Kabinett (Middle Mosel) was a wow (with a circle around it) wine—great balance, refreshing peach pit, and, wow, what focus. The 2007 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abstberg Riesling Kabinett (Ruwer), on the other hand, was a hard sell for me—burnt wool, light honey with zip—drinkable but weird. Asking around I never got a firm idea of what others thought of it. The 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Middle Mosel) had cantaloupe and a rich, full-on, mouthfeel. Some dry crispness, interesting, but, frankly, less pleasant for me.
Moving on from the kabinetten, the 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Middle Mosel) offered a much more developed nose than the kabinett. A beautiful prickly feel to it with great focus and plenty of deliciousness—yum. Outstanding. The 2006 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel (Nahe) had a rich, but more savory, nose. The mouthfeel was pretty delicious—and it had plenty of admirers about the room—but, for me, it lacked focus, or at least its yum fresh sugary taste never came together to be anything more. Perhaps in time. The 2006 Hauth Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Middle Mosel) was like drinking a blank-and-tan (sort of). Sticky and cloying with acid on top—divided like oil and vinegar. The 2006 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese (Saar) was pretty dang delicious—tight focused nose and simply tasting clean—refreshing despite the thicker texture. Much more my style of wine for the 2006 vintage. The 2006 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben (Ruwer) offered a wow, ethereal nose, great balance, honeyed but still nimble—but lacked depth for me. Perhaps in time.
And onto the auslesen with the 2005 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Middle Mosel) whose nose was just starting to emerge—pretty huge things going on in there. Savory, but most definitely needs time. The 2005 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Middle Mosel) offered that classic focus and amazing precision I've come to associate with Prüm wines—easy and delicious to drink, plenty to appreciate right now, actually. Lots of weight, though. The 2001 Hans Lang Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Rheingau), on the other hand, was thick cloying, heavy, more Sauternes in style, lumbering, some developing aging flavors, but not my cup of tea. Texturelly unwelcome. But so it goes.