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WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

by Jay Labrador » Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:40 am

With Ramon going back to NY on Saturday, a couple of us got together for a final lunch with him at Elbert's Steak Room. 3 guys ordered the de luxe Chef's burger made with foie gras and blue cheese, one got the regular burger and I had the just-added-to-the-menu duck confit.

Wagner Stempel Siefersheimer Riesling QbA Trocken "Vom Porphyr" 2007 - A great vintage for Germany. I generally don't drink trocken Riesling but I enjoyed this a lot. Very slightly spritzy. Flinty and smoky. Still has a bit of fruit to it despite the trocken designation. Candied lemon peel. Sweet spices. A touch of honey when it warms up. Lovely balance and lively acidity. Real easy to drink and very expressive. Very good.

Felton Road Block 3 Pinot Noir 2008 - Otago, NZ. Smoky. Quite sweet and fruity. Seems on the heavy side for a PN. There's a bit of leafiness to it. Dry finish. Still young and not showing much complexity. I'm sure this will be more expressive with time. Still, it's not a bad drink now.

Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva 1999 - I've had Tondonias a couple of times before and it's just a style I don't get. Maybe it's too old-fashioned for me. I've changed my mind with this bottle. A light wine but with a surprisingly firm finish. Very elegant and understated. Some tea notes mingle with the very gentle sweetness of the fruit. Real easy to drink. Excellent. Maybe I should just avoid the Gran Reservas of this house and go for the Reservas.

Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Gran Bussia 2000 - Definitely Barolo in the modern style. Ripe fruit and quite forward. Easy to drink and seems at peak now. I seem to be missing a little depth and complexity here. Barolo for beginners? No tar and roses either.

Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde 1983 - Good fragrance. Tea leaves. Something medicinal, iodine. Very soft. The tannins are nearly all gone but it still has a good deal of fruit. Perhaps just past peak though still very good.

Gonzalez-Byass Apostoles Palo Cortado Muy Viejo 30 Anos VORS - Light amber, nuts on the nose and walnuts on the palate. Very appetizing and easy to drink. Sort of like a Bual Madeira with the acidity toned down. Gentle sweetness. Every other palo cortado I've tried is bone dry and something of an acquired taste but this is a crowd pleaser. I think this has some Pedro Ximenez blended in. Excellent.

On the way home I dropped by Wine Depot to check out the Wine of the Week:

Dominio de Atauta 2005 - From Ribera del Duero. Odd but appealing peachy and spicy wood aromas on the nose. Sweet fruit. Rich but not heavy. Plum, grilled meat. A touch of something metallic as well. Coarse, gravelly tannins. Very long but slightly bitter/burnt finish. The tannins are very strong and so this needs some major cellaring time. This should be very good with about 3 years more in the cellar.
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Sue Courtney

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Re: WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

by Sue Courtney » Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:56 pm

Jay, that Felton Road Block 3 should be tucked away in the cellar for a couple of years at least, I reckon.
When I went through the Felton Road 2008 pinots in October - there were five of them - this is the one that of all of them, when tasted in a line up, seduced with its beguiling aromas and tried to coerce me with 'drink me now' suggestions, but I got past its upfront seductiveness. "Needs more time," I wrote. It seemed the most oak dominant of the five and that oak needs time to integrate. At least the Felton Roads have a good track record for cellaring.

Cheers,
Sue
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Victor de la Serna

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Re: WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

by Victor de la Serna » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:19 pm

Jay Labrador wrote:Maybe I should just avoid the Gran Reservas of this house and go for the Reservas.

Don't! You'll miss the really good stuff. Find the 1991 Tondonia Gran Reserva (their current release), and you'll see what I mean.
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Jay Labrador

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Re: WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

by Jay Labrador » Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:45 pm

Victor de la Serna wrote:
Jay Labrador wrote:Maybe I should just avoid the Gran Reservas of this house and go for the Reservas.

Don't! You'll miss the really good stuff. Find the 1991 Tondonia Gran Reserva (their current release), and you'll see what I mean.


Thanks for the heads-up, Victor. I'll certainly make it a point to give it a try.
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ChaimShraga

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Re: WTN: Germany, NZ, Spain, Barolo, Cote Rotie

by ChaimShraga » Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:18 am

Jay Labrador wrote:Gonzalez-Byass Apostoles Palo Cortado Muy Viejo 30 Anos VORS - Light amber, nuts on the nose and walnuts on the palate. Very appetizing and easy to drink. Sort of like a Bual Madeira with the acidity toned down. Gentle sweetness. Every other palo cortado I've tried is bone dry and something of an acquired taste but this is a crowd pleaser. I think this has some Pedro Ximenez blended in. Excellent.


Man, you're bringing back memories. The Gonzalez-Byass premium sherries are a great bargain and this was especially excellent for its balance, although dry Palo Cortado used to be my favorite style of sherry.
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