WTN: 1978 Borgogno Barolo Riserva - Blood Lust

1978 G. Borgogno Barolo Riserva (Piedmont) This is a fairly recent library release with a pretty brand-new cork. The color definitely looks mature with significant orange bricking. Aromas of dried roses, tar, orange peel, all the usual suspects that really take off after a couple of hours of micro-ox. The flavor though, wow, this is a wine that Nosferatu would revel in. Lill describes it as “sucking on a paper cut….yet I like it”. Very bloody, lots of copper, nary a hint of fruit, robust acidity that starts the mouth watering followed by a tannic structure that pulls every drop of saliva out of my mouth. After about an hour of drinking (a few hours after opening) things take a significant turn with superb red and black cherry fruit flavors popping out, acidity coming in to balance, the structure relaxing ever so slightly yet the bloodline remains. The more we drink, the younger the wine is tasting, more fruit comes out, it’s more energetic. Fascinating really and delightful.

Bill
I'm very much in appreciation of the Borgogno style. It can be lean, difficult, harsh, awkward, etc. but 30-40 years down the line has plenty to say.
Wine doesn't have to be accessible in youth, when it's this interesting when mature.

regards

Ian

[David M. Bueker]

Kriss Reed and I once shared a '67 Borgogno. The iron/austerity elements really struck me for that bottle, and it was delightful with food.

[Jenise]

Kriss Reed and I once shared a '67 Borgogno. The iron/austerity elements really struck me for that bottle, and it was delightful with food.

Treasure the memories--he gets married in less than two weeks!

Interesting points, Ian. I've had the '90 Borgogno at about 17 yrs old and wasn't all that impressed compared to other '90's I've had. More lean compared to other fairly lush '90s. This wine was totally different though.

The more we drink, the younger the wine is tasting, more fruit comes out, it’s more energetic..

Funny how that happens, isn't it.

Some of my notes for comparison

1990 Borgogno Barolo Riserva - oddly enough I had a bottle of this the night before, when it presented as a bit acidic and lean, but then opened up fairly well with food, although it never attained the heights it should have. This one, sadly, failed to measure up to even that modest mark - corked and acidic. I will open a bottle of this tonight with some oxtail stew and see if the problem is bottle variation or more general. The 89 vintage was much better when I last tasted it, and the very old wines made by this traditional house often last amazingly well.


1989 Borgogno Barolo Riserva – some browning/fading at edges, mature nose without to much tar, still surprisingly tannic, ending well – juicy, and with some fruit that only appeared 4 hours after decanting.


1952 Borgogno Barola Riserva - a traditional maker of old style long ageing wines, and this one didn''t disappoint. Big cherry and tar nose good intensity and length and lots of chewy fruit, if not exactly the ultimate in elegance! Served alone with an aged parmigiano reggiano (1 kilo disappeared in record time.)

Also had the 1961 and went through a case of 1989 - very nice.

Funny how that happens, isn't it.

Indeed. The best examples of this recently for me is the string of Musar I've had (both red and white). The older they were and the longer they were opened, they younger they tasted. The '70 Musar red was a true Benjamin Button.

Nice data points there, Bill.

Bill
The necroviniac in me would say that 17 years old would have been too young for Borgogno Give it as long again and it might impress!

That said, they do have quite a reputation for variability and the lean mean distance runner style can leave it somewhat charmless, especially when compared to their peer group in the 1st couple of decades.

regards

Ian

I cellared a bunch fof 89 and 90 and my clear preference is the 89 (which I still have - I worked through the 90 some time ago). So while this maker often makes long lived wined, 'taint always that way, you've got to check them out for yourself.

I've also tried the 85, 61, 64, 67 and 71, but couldn't lay my hands on notes.