Strange coincidence the other night, as I pulled a 2001Schmitt-Wagner Auslese while with zero consultation Thor pulled the corresponding Kabinett. Of course we had to open both.
The 2001 Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett was certainly grumpy about being opened, and it was also a bit chilly. For the first several minutes it had little to show but its sulfur. Air and warmth did the trick, and the wine became more floral and fruity, though still a bit austere. I liked the balance and the minerality on the back end, but it may have been a little bit empty on the mid-palate.
The 2001 Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Auslese was similarly upset about being opened, and showed even more obvious sulfur. More classicial than 99% of the auslesen released from Germany over the last 5-7 years, this had better front to back balance than the kabinett (no hole in the middle) but still retained that sense of austerity and minerality. I will wait another couple of years before I open this wine again, focusing on the spatlese instead, which, if the kabinett and auslese are any indication, should be just entering its wheelhouse now.