Is there any conventional wisdom on the drinking windows of top class Brunellos?
Personally, I think 10-18 years is the window. I probably get to try at least 15 producers in most vintages and have 19 different Brunellos in the cellar at this time. My favorite producers are Pacente, Casanova di Neri, Argiano, the higher-end Banfi, Castelgiacondo and Poggio Antico but there are a lot of others that I have appreciated from vintage to vintage. 1985, 1988 and 1990 were all great years but even the 1990s are beginning to taste tired by comparison to where they were a few years ago. 1995 was a very tannic year and really good wine was only made by the guys at the higher altitudes but the best wines are still holding their own. 1996 was relatively light but the wines have aged nicely and are holding well, 1997 was a big and lush year and is drinking extremely well and I do not expect it to improve from these levels. 1998 was an OK year that is generally pretty close to full maturity. 1999 is showing signs of being less attractive than it was six months ago; one hopes this is temporary. 2000 I know less well because it was such a touted vintage and because I did not buy the hype when I tasted the wines so I don't have the experience as the wines age. 2001 is a terrific year with more to give; already drinking well but will improve. 2002 was wet and not very successful. 2003 was and is on the jammy side but can be good drinking and is generally quite forward. 2004 is another terrific year but will improve with time.
The Italians almost always drive these wines much, much, much younger than the stranieri do. I would guess that most Italians would hesitate to order or serve anything much older than a 2001.
That is my 25-cent briefing.
Regards,
Robert