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WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

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Robert Helms

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WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Robert Helms » Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:45 am

1995 Schramsberg Blanc de Noir
With age, this has evolved into a full-bodied, quite dry champagne with medium acidity, good balance and good length. More toast and biscuit than fruit, what it is not is very Californian. Not sure that it tastes that much like any particular Champagne house, but it is an excellent champagne-like wine. Holding very nicely. Excellent

2007 Inama Soave Vigneto Lot
Stefan's higher-end Soave, typically 50% new oak. Nose is both floral and shows vanilla. Crisp with strong acidity. Not as oaky on the palate as some of the older vintages. Seriously good Soave. Excellent

1999 Castelgiacondo Brunello di Montalcino
Dark red. A bit on the dumb side, showing not that much of anything. What there is is very nice but this seems more muted than I remember it. Very Good+

1999 Antinori Pian delle Vigne
Very similar notes to the Castelgiacondo. Also Very Good+

Which suggests that the 1999 Brunellos in my cellar are going through a dumb period and should be left alone for a while.

1994 Dal Forno Romano Nettare
Romano's sweet white wine. This has turned almost sherry color but remains rich and alive on the palate. Of only medium sweetness (my guess is about 70 grams of residual sugar), this has evolved into a passito on steroids with simply more of everything. Excellent+/Outstanding

Regards,

Robert
Regards,

Robert Helms
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:23 am

Brunello is a tough nut to crack for me. I am never quite sure when is the right time to open them. Is there any conventional wisdom on the drinking windows of top class Brunellos?
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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Diane (Long Island) » Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:45 am

I don't drink or buy much Brunello, but recent 1999's I have had are Valdicava and Poderina, and they were both mammoth wines, and not very fun to drink. I have a few more '99s that I am holding off for a couple of years. However, I have enjoyed several from the 1995 vintage, so that is what I would choose for current drinking.
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Ian Sutton

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Ian Sutton » Mon Jan 04, 2010 2:12 pm

Mine may not be conventional, or indeed wisdom :oops: :lol: but I think my sweet spot for Brunello is nearer the 20-30 yr old mark rather than 10-15 yr old. Warning though, I do like old wine in general.

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Ian
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Robert Helms

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Robert Helms » Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:35 pm

Is there any conventional wisdom on the drinking windows of top class Brunellos?

Personally, I think 10-18 years is the window. I probably get to try at least 15 producers in most vintages and have 19 different Brunellos in the cellar at this time. My favorite producers are Pacente, Casanova di Neri, Argiano, the higher-end Banfi, Castelgiacondo and Poggio Antico but there are a lot of others that I have appreciated from vintage to vintage. 1985, 1988 and 1990 were all great years but even the 1990s are beginning to taste tired by comparison to where they were a few years ago. 1995 was a very tannic year and really good wine was only made by the guys at the higher altitudes but the best wines are still holding their own. 1996 was relatively light but the wines have aged nicely and are holding well, 1997 was a big and lush year and is drinking extremely well and I do not expect it to improve from these levels. 1998 was an OK year that is generally pretty close to full maturity. 1999 is showing signs of being less attractive than it was six months ago; one hopes this is temporary. 2000 I know less well because it was such a touted vintage and because I did not buy the hype when I tasted the wines so I don't have the experience as the wines age. 2001 is a terrific year with more to give; already drinking well but will improve. 2002 was wet and not very successful. 2003 was and is on the jammy side but can be good drinking and is generally quite forward. 2004 is another terrific year but will improve with time.

The Italians almost always drive these wines much, much, much younger than the stranieri do. I would guess that most Italians would hesitate to order or serve anything much older than a 2001.

That is my 25-cent briefing.

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Robert
Regards,

Robert Helms
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Lou Kessler

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Lou Kessler » Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:12 pm

Ian Sutton wrote:Mine may not be conventional, or indeed wisdom :oops: :lol: but I think my sweet spot for Brunello is nearer the 20-30 yr old mark rather than 10-15 yr old. Warning though, I do like old wine in general.

regards

Ian

Sounds like you might have a classic English palate. I have a friend who loves his champagne at an age I'm ready to put it down the drain. Different strokes for different folks. Not a criticism.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:37 am

LOU, I am an ex-Brit too! You guys are drinking most wines way too young, grin wink. Still have some `88 Heidsieck, lovely.
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Mark Kogos

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Re: WTN: two 1999 Brunellos and other stuff

by Mark Kogos » Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:16 am

Robert

Thank you for the write up. I have a small mini vertical of the Castelgiacondo, 97,98 & 99. I have been drinking the 98 over recent years because as you say it was the weakest of the three vintages. Like David i was never really sure when i should start to open them as I dont find the Italian guides that helpful. I have drunk 3 or 4 of the 98 over the last 4-5 years and had been really disappointed until the last bottle late last year. Slowly it has started to emerge from it's slumber and become an enjoyable wine of depth and complexity. The 99 and 97 I may leave for another few years.

Sadly my experiment with aging some Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto 99 has not proved quite as successful. I suspect I should have finished off these wines a year or so ago.

Mark
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