WTN:Post festive Spaniards,Bolly,Fèlsina,Vin Cuit Provençal

My daughter Catherine has just left for the airport to return to Rome. This gives me about 2 hours of access to the computer before my son and his family return. Needless to say more good bottles have been opened since Christmas weekend.

Monday evening

With a simple pasta dish, I served Chianti Classico 2005 – Fèlsina Beradenga which was excellent as usual. Probably in a transitional phase because not quite so fruity as a year ago but showing good depth, harmonious shape, minerality, Chianti tang and decent structure; 15.5/20+ with more life for potential ++.

Tuesday evening

As Catherine was not staying till New Year, we had a mini “reveillon” dinner with smoked salmon and foie gras zakouskis and lamb as the main course followed by more cheese and "oeufs à la neige", Catherine's favourite.






Champagne La Grande Année 1997 – Bollinger and Kidibul (Kiddy Bubbles) soft drink so that grand-daughter, Léonie, could join in the fun. I did not try the latter; the Bolly was less full than from a truly “grande année”, being similar in weight to Special Cuvée with perhaps finer bubbles and a supplement of finesse, charm and length; 17/20+.


Rioja Finca El Bosque 2001 – Sierra Cantabria was built with steroids and was contained in a appropriately body builder bottle. Nevertheless the wine was very good with rich complex aromas of sweet dark fruit laced with just a hint of vanilla which just avoided being jammy and a very full powerful body with impressive but beguiling substance, depth and structure. Wood ageing was not at all obtrusive and my main criticisms are upfront shape on the palate giving a somewhat short impression and a tendency to overwhelm the food; 16.5/20+.


Ribera del Duero Pesquera Crianza 1994 – Bodegas Alejandra Fernandez is not a shrinking virgin of a wine but it took a few moments to adjust to its relative restraint after El Bosque; then the comparison was in its favour because, though less full bodied and structured, it was more harmoniously shaped on the palate, more subtle in its aromas and fruit and distinctly more elegant and long; 17/20.


Vin Cuit selon la Vieille Tradition Provençale – Domaine Les Bastides, Jean Salen. I have had these bottles bought at the excellent estate near Aix-en-Provence for more than 10 years; the only articles I can find about the production method are in French and I have no information about the varietal composition (probably the usual Syrah, Grenache, etc. plus maybe a dash of CabSauv). Colour was darkish pink but a considerable stain on the lower side of the bottle indicates that it would have been darker when young. The taste was very attractive on entry and mid-palate with lively flavours including strawberry, good acidity complementing the sweetness together with an invigorating note of moreish varnish which may indicate a touch of volatility at an acceptable level; the finish was, however, much softer and close to cloying; a fascinating wine which should probably have been drunk 3-4 years ago; 15.5/20.

Vin Cuit selon la Vielle Tradition Provençale

Tim, as usual you mention a wine, many would like to die for!!! I will try to find some more details, as I am wont to do.
Rioja on steroids I`d say!
Your pics certainly enhance your write-ups.

Vin Cuit selon la Vielle Tradition Provençale – Domaine La Bastide, Jean Salem. I have had these bottles bought at the excellent estate near Aix-en-Provence for more than 10 years; the only articles I can find about the production method are in French and I have no information about the varietal composition (probably the usual Syrah, Grenache, etc. plus maybe a dash of CabSauv). Colour was darkish pink but a considerable stain on the lower side of the bottle indicates that it would have been darker when young. The taste was very attractive on entry and mid-palate with lively flavours including strawberry, good acidity complementing the sweetness together with an invigorating note of moreish varnish which may indicate a touch of volatility at an acceptable level; the finish was, however, much softer and close to cloying; a fascinating wine which should probably have been drunk 3-4 years ago; 15.5/20.

I had this a couple of years ago and was told it was 100% Grenache, and that was exactly what it tasted like, IIRC.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

Vin Cuit selon la Vieille Tradition Provençale – Domaine Les Bastides, Jean Salen.

I had this a couple of years ago and was told it was 100% Grenache, and that was exactly what it tasted like, IIRC.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

I have found this post from the excellent Passion du Vin website which confirms that this wine is 100% Grenache and also contains brief information on the estate's other excellent products.

Domaine travaillant très "proprement" (bio) depuis de nombreuses années. Deux cuvées de rouge (Tradition et Valéria). Tradition à majorité Grenache (3/4) le reste en Carignan et Cinsault. La cuvée Valéria est moitié Cabernet Sauvignon, moitié Grenache avec un zeste de Mourvèdre. A la propriété les vins sont vendus à des prix très raisonnables pour la région (7 euros pour la cuvée Tradition et 11 euros pour la cuvée Valéria). Actuellement sont commercialisés les millésimes 2001 en Tradition et 1999 en Valéria. Il y a également un blanc (Ugni, Sauvignon, Rolle) à 7 euros et le fameux vin cuit provençal.
Ce vin qui est traditionnellemnt dégusté avec les 13 desserts provençaux de Noà«l est un vin de granache fait à partir de moûts qui ont été chauffés. Marqué par les arômes du grenache, ce vin se "comporte" comme un liquoreux. A boire sur des tartes aux pommes ou aux abricots par exemple ou pour lui-même en fin de repas. (sans doute aussi sur un foie gras, mais je n'ai pas essayé).

On the same visit when I bought the Vin Cuit, I also bought some bottles of Cuvée Valéria '95, long since drunk, which had unusual distinction for Provençal wine.

thanks for the excellent notes! Sounds like fun time (and Leonie is very cute!)
Felsina is only challenged by Montevertine as my favorite Tuscan producer, just so reliably good.
I have a different 2001 Sierra Cantabria, the Cuvee Especial, that I hope absorbs it's oak as well as your Bosque.