Some brief comments on two bordeauxs we opened over the holidays, the 98 de Fieuzal (Pessac L) and the 94 Chauvin (St. Emillion).
We found the Fieuzal to be drinking splendidly. I don't have a history with this wine so I don't have a sense of everything possible, and though I think it still has upside potential and seems only on the middle aged side of mature, it showed well just popped and poured and easily outshone everything else on the table (with no malice I admit that was not hard to do on this occasion, but still). Bright and minerally with black cherry and cassis fruit, some beginning leather notes, medium bodied and satisfying.
The 1994 Chauvin we opened to having with french dip sandwiches made from shaved roast rack of veal dunked in a marsala reduction. At first it was enormously appealing with that rich, earthy warmth these right bankers can develop in relative youth and showing herbal flavors entirely consistent with cab franc, but unfortunately between the first and second glass, it all turned south: the fruit dropped out, and drying tannins took over completely. Drink up!